Exploring Kingscote and the North East Coast.......

The next morning we decided that as we were going to be leaving Kingscote the next day we had better have a look and 'see the sights'.  

Our first stop was coffee at Chocol'Art.  This is a small gallery run by a local photographer and as Bill had the camera with him they got talking.  Bill asked for suggestions of best bird picture opportunities and Pete very kindly shared some of his spots with him.  

Our first stop was to the Jetty and while Bill was playing with the many Terns, Pacific Gulls and Cormorants I wandered over to the rock wall to see a group of seals just rolling around in the shallows.  

Just below me on the rocks three of them were sleeping in the sun without a care in the world.  This fellow looked like he was settled in for the day.

Bill joined me then took some pictures and just as we we leaving another one came in just in front of the car and hopped up onto the concrete wall.  Obviously we didn't leave quite so soon. 

Another little snippet here was we kept seeing signs about Little Penguin tours but on approaching the office I found a sign on the door stating that the tours had been cancelled due to the Seals eating the Penguins!  Nothing like softening the blow eh! So while we tourists loved the photo ops the seals gave us the Little Penguins had suffered with their arrival.

From here we followed the directions given to us by Pete and soon we were driving along a track right beside the Bay of Shoals.  We were hoping to see the Osprey that he said could be found there most days.  We saw the huge nest as we approached the end of the road but no birds in sight.  

Just as we got out of the car to walk a little further, four of the most magnificent birds flew over the cliff beside us and just soared above for about 20 mins.  It was such a privilege to be just standing there watching them.  Of course Bills trigger finger was going a hundred miles a min and he had many shots to choose from.  Finally they turned and flew back over the hill and we too turned the car around and continued our look around Kingscote.  

We took a look at Reeves Point the sight of the first official European settlement in South Australia and it was here we found the 'old mulberry tree' said to have grown from a cutting one of those first settlers brought with them.  Still alive, it is now held up by wire supports, but nearby are other trees planted from cuttings from the original one so its descendants will continue to live on.  Here we found relics of the old jetty, first well, the quarry site, landing site, German row and old Post Office!  The flag flys proudly at the top most part of the hill!

We ate our lunch in Memorial Park looking out over Nepean Bay and Kingscote Beach.  A little further along the road was the John Downing Reserve and it was here that the town baths were.  

This is a sea pool and later that evening as we were on our way home we found a seal there just settling in for a grooming session on the pool edge.

After lunch we called into the Island Beehive to learn about and taste the famous Kangaroo Island Honey.   The island is a bee sanctuary for the Ligurian Bee and has strict quarantine measures to keep the bee population pure.  Here you can watch the bees at work in a glass hive and of course buy any of the many different flavours and types of honey products available.  Sadly many tacky souvenirs as well!  

Our next stop was to the Island Pure Sheep Dairy.  Having tried sheep cheese before in WA we were looking forward to tasting some more.  A very muddy drive to get there and once there it was a little underwhelming.  If you didn't want to pay to take the tour, or pay to do the tasting then it seemed like they weren't that interested.  We did leave with one cheese, still to be sampled at the time of writing this, and a sheeps milk yoghurt with Ligurian Bee Honey.  It was delicious and I would loved to have gone back if they had been friendlier.  If only they sold it in Melbourne!

From here we drove a little further afield to the Stokes Bay on the north coast where we found a tiny little fishing village and a sign pointing through the rocks to the Secret Beach.  

From this little bay you can walk through this narrow pathway in the rocks and come out to another tiny little bay.  We did walk through but could not get out the other side as the tide was coming in fast but I did manage to just get a glimpse of the secret beach before we turned and hi tailed it back to dry land.

We drove back along the North Coast Rd to Emu Bay, apparently the only beach on Kangaroo Island where you can drive right onto the beach.  We parked at the jetty and had fun with the many Terns that were lined up on the railings.

We drove back into Kingscote to shop for the next few days.  We visited the supermarket, the local butcher and the local fishmonger before going back home for some R and R before dinner.  As it would be our last night in civilisation, so to speak, we were going back into town to have dinner at the Queenscliffe Family Hotel.  This lovely old limestone building dates back to 1884 is still catering to the hungry people of Kangaroo Island.  

The next morning we were up bright and early and soon after were packed up for our move to American River.  We had enjoyed our few days here and while the park had been adequate it had not had that 'special' quality we have found in many other places.  At least it had been quiet and we never had to wait for the bathrooms - the Ladies was Pink!

We popped into Kingscote for a coffee and then turned the car around to drive back to find a new home at the American River campground.  

This is a council run camp right beside the water.  They have powered sites for $25 per night, complete with hot showers, flushing toilets and an amazing camp kitchen with a huge gas bar-b-que.  We were in heaven!

And so while we get settled here I'll leave you until next time ..........

Kangaroo island here we come.........

We woke the following morning to a very damp but fine morning.  A walk around the camp ground showed us the stunning view right across the paddocks to the island.  If only the mist would lift so we could see it clearly.  Time to pack up and catch the ferry.

We drove down the road towards the ferry terminal but first stopped at a scenic lookout half way down to see the fabulous view of Cape Jervis pier, the ferry, the Backstairs Passage and Kangaroo Island.  Photo op over and it was back in the car to begin our big adventure.

We arrived at the terminal almost an hour before our sailing time and found the early ferry still there.  When we asked where they wanted us to wait they told us to park in the standby lane and we would be put on if there was room.  There was and within 15 mins Bill had the car and van parked and we were aboard the ferry and on our way.

The body of water between the mainland and the island is called the Backstairs Passage, so named by Capt. Matthew Flinders whilst he and his crew on HMS Investigator were exploring and mapping the coastline of South Australia in 1802.  It is renowned for its rough crossings and this morning was no different giving us a pretty choppy ride.  It did make for an entertaining trip watching as people tried to walk around, it really was one step forward and quite a few backwards, very reminiscent of the odd drunken stagger.  Of course this was only amusing if you were not one of the people clutching a sick bag and there were a few of them too.  Bill and I made it across unscathed but I have to admit if the trip had been too much longer my tummy would not have liked it at all.  

The trip took about 45 mins and once docked Bill was almost first off. He took this picture as he waited for me to walk up the hill and then we were on our way pretty quick smart.  Having no idea of what we would find we had booked our first night at the Caravan Park near Kingscote so drove straight there.  The ferry docks at Penneshaw and it is about an hours drive to Kingscote which is the largest town on the island.  

Kangaroo Island is Australia's third largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island.   Arriving here you will find many large open spaces and an amazingly diverse landscape.  If you drive the 155 km length you will discover soaring cliffs, dense forest, towering sand dunes, wetlands and the most amazing white beaches.  Anyone thinking they can just pop over for the weekend would get a rude shock as they would hardly scratch the surface of all there is too see and do.  We were staying for 10 days and were looking forward to exploring the island very thoroughly.

We arrived at the caravan park, found a site, and got ourselves organized before going into Kingscote for a look at the 'big smoke'.  We had a walk along the Main Street, a coffee, visited the tourist information place (more gift shop than information) and checked out the supermarket for dinner that night before returning home for lunch.  

After lunch we drove to Parndana near the centre of the island and while it might have been a more central location to base ourselves in, we found the campground to be a little bleak, so decided that we would stay where we were for another couple of days.  We would then move to American River for three nights before relocating to the other end of the island and spend the last four nights in the Flinders Chase National Park.  This way we should have Kangaroo island fairly well covered.  

After our brief look at Parndana we drove on to the very muddy Harriet Rd and made our way down to Vivonne Bay in the centre of the south coast.  Our first stop was at Point Ellen where we found beautiful rock pools and soaring cliffs beside The Southern Ocean and on the other side the gorgeous Vivonne Bay.  

The weather was still a bit hit and miss but while we were here the sun shone and the rainbow over the other side of the bay was just beautiful. 

We had a look at Harriet River and checked out the campgrounds here before driving around to see Vivonne Bay from the beach.  It was once proclaimed 'the best beach in Australia' after Professor Andrew Short from Sydney Uni conducted research to find the best strip of sand Australia has to offer.  A big call to say the least.  We found a beautiful white beach with not another soul here and enjoyed a walk along the sand leaving only our two sets of footprints.

Leaving the beach we drove back home where once again we stayed warm and dry inside as a rather cool damp night fell.   It had been a big day and an early night was in order.

Can't wait for tomorrow - until then.........

Penneshaw and the Dudley Peninsula

The next morning we decided that we would drive back to Penneshaw to the accredited tourist information centre and find out how to best experience Kangaroo Island.  After a chat with one of the girls we left with a map and lots of ideas of what to see and do.  Our first stop was for coffee sitting on a verandah opposite the Penneshaw Hotel while we planned the rest of our day.

Leaving the cafe we drove along the coast road stopping to take a walk along the gorgeous little beach where we found some Pied Oystercatchers and the elusive Hooded Plover.   This little beach is on Hog Bay and from here we could see the ferry ready to leave on it's next crossing.  Looking the other way we could see Frenchman's Rock and Ironstone Hill and Baudin Conservation area.

Hog Bay Beach was where The French Explorer, Captain Nicholas Baudin, anchored and sent a party ashore to find fresh meat and water.  While waiting for the water casks to fill one of the French sailors carved a message on a rock which translated to 'Expedition of discovery by Captain Baudin in the Geographe 1803'.  The original rock is now housed in the tourist information and a replica rock has been placed beside the spring.  While we were there they were doing some repair work on the walkways so we could not get too close.

Of course Capt. Matthew Flinders had made the first recorded sighted of the island in March 1802 when he came ashore and named it Kangaroo Island because of all the roaming Kangaroos. It was the first time the hungry crew had found fresh food in months.  In April 1802 as the 'Investigator' left the bay they sighted the sails of 'Le Geographe' on the horizon.  Capt. Matthew Flinders shared his knowledge of fresh food and water with Capt. Nicholas Baudin even though the two countries were at war during that time.  

Just opposite, above Frenchman's Rock, is the Contemplation Seat where you can sit and remember the Aboriginal Women who were brought to Kangaroo Island to assist the whalers and sealers before official settlement of the island.  As you climb up to the park each step is engraved with one of their names.  

Back in the car we drove around to Baudin Conservation Park where we stretched the legs again with a walk before continuing on our tour of the Dudley Peninsula.  From here we drove on to see Chapman River and Antechamber Bay.  There was a campsite and picnic area here and we had our lunch in the car as the rain arrived just as we did.  Once it had stopped we were out of the car and walked over to see another beautifully tranquil beach.  Beside the car was the river which was just as tranquil and so clear you could almost see the fish.

Our next stop was Cape Willoughby to see the lighthouse.  This was the first lighthouse on the island, built in 1852.  It is a 27 metre high tower with three keepers cottages and a weather station making up the complex.  Still a working lighthouse it is now open for tourists so we were able to walk around the grounds and see the spectacular views across the coast, The southern Ocean and The Backstairs Passage.   Bill took this photo as we left Cape Willoughby.

From the car park the beautiful Moncrieff Bay could be seen and beyond to another lighthouse on Cape St Albans.  This one was not open to the public as the others were.

Pretty much touristed out for the day we turned the car around and headed for home with a quick stop to check out the camping sites at Browns Beach and American River.  We stopped for a while here at the jetty fascinated by the pelicans as they lined up on the lights waiting for the boats to come in.  

The Pelican Sculpture below them told stories of the fishermen, ketches and history of American River and we were looking forward to coming here to stay.  More on that later.  So from here it was straight home for dinner, a movie and bed.  We had had a fabulous day and Kangaroo Island just kept getting better and better.

Until tomorrow........