Keep up to date with Rhos and Bill as they enjoy life in country Victoria and places beyond. Photos by Bill and Rhos

Sunday, May 15, 2016

Launceston and the Tamar Valley.........

We woke the next morning to very chilly 2.2 deg, (what happened to the 4), and grey skies but no use sulking we had lots to see and do.  We made our way into the city and after a quick stop at the information centre to pick up maps we were soon taking a walk through the streets of Launceston.
The buildings here are beautifully maintained and you get a real feel for the way it must have been in the early days of the colony.  The old GPO built between 1886 and 1889 in the Queen Anne architectural style was once considered too decorative but now is a landmark building as are the Town Hall and Macquarie House.
From here it is just a few minutes away to Launceston's jewel in the crown, Cataract Gorge.  This is a truly amazing place to visit and we spent a couple of hours wandering some of the smaller walk tracks.  
The first European to discover this incredible river gorge was William Collins in 1804 and the pathway from Kings Bridge in town was built by volunteers in the 1890's.  Running along the north bank of the gorge this path is still in use today.
Alexander Bridge, the iconic suspension bridge crossing the gorge was built in 1940 and links the shorter walk tracks with the longer walk to Duck Reach power station.
From here we drove down to the seaport and walked along the extensive boardwalk beside the Tamar River.  Across the river you can see the Gorge entrance, Kings Bridge and Ritchie's Mill which was built around 1836 and operated continuously as a flour mill for 137 years.
As the weather was deteriorating and the wind nearly blowing us away we decided that we would take a drive out to the East Tamar Valley and so made our way out to George Town at the end of the road.  
We stopped to check out the local information centre and found two very helpful ladies who seemed glad to have a captive audience for a little while.  Loaded with brochures we left and made our way into the little town where we stopped to look at the Watch House before making our way to Windmill Point to see the wonderful carvings along the foreshore.  
Artist Eddie Freeman has transformed old macrocarpa pines into tales of Geoge Town maritime history.  All done with chainsaw and chisels these carvings, which include whales, penguins, replica ships, pelicans and sailors leave you in awe of this talented artist.
From here we drove to the end of the road at Low Head to see the Lighthouse, the Tamar River and the coastline.  Beautiful scenery as always and the end of our touring for today.  Returning home we settled inside to stay warm as another chilly night was forecast.

The next morning we braved the cold early and set out to explore the West Tamar Valley.  Our first stop was just out of town at the Tamar Island Wetlands. 
This wonderful facility includes 3.2 kms of walk tracks and boardwalks as well as a bird hide not far from the visitor centre.  It was such a lovely spot to stop but being on the banks of the Tamar River it is tidal and as the tide was in while we were there not too many birds were to be found.  It will certainly be on the must visit list again next time though.
Our next stop was off the highway to find the Batman Bridge where East Tamar meets West Tamar.  This is the first cable stayed bridge in Australia and was built between 1966 and 1968.  What might be the largest 'A' in the world, the bridge spans over 400 metres and rises almost 100 metres in the air across the Tamar River.  It really does look impressive from all angles.
Back on the highway we made our way towards the coast and finally stopped at Badger Beach in the Narawntapu National Park.  This was a tiny beach at the end of the road but with not much else here we made our way back to civilisation and stopped at Beaconsfield.
Of course we all remember that dreadful day when we heard the news of the mine collapse, but even though the mine has closed, the little town has reinvented itself as a tourist site.  The mine and heritage centre is very impressive and the miners village across the road is very interesting to wander through.
We stopped for a quick look at Brady's Lookout.  Once the home of the infamous bush ranger Mathew Brady it now plays host to the many people who stop here to admire the sweeping views along the river and valley below.
Our last stop for the day was at the historic Kings Bridge.  Dating from 1864 this bridge is still in use today although there is a newer larger bridge beside it.  The original toll house can be seen here beside the bridge as well.  
Shortly after we were back at home for our last night at Old Macs.  Time was running out and we had just two more nights left in Tasmania.  

Next morning we made our way north towards Devonport with just the one stop at Deloraine for coffee.  Soon after we were back where we started from at Mersey Bluff Caravan Park.  Today the sun was shining and the wind had gone making this a much nicer place to be than last time.  We spent the afternoon tidying up in general and getting ready for our return trip on the ferry.
Just one last walk along the Mersey River to see the Neptune style nude sculpture called the Spirit of the Sea, standing trident raised and leg up at the headland that welcomes the ferries.  The setting sun enhanced the lighthouse beside the Mersey River.

Spirit 2 was loading for it's departure later that evening and we continued our walk to meet Avril and Ian for dinner at Bella's Italian Restaurant.  It was good to see them again and we had a great night hearing about their Easter adventures.
A very early start saw us back in line to board the ferry.  Much quicker this end and soon after we were settled in for the next 10 hours.  The weather was great, the sea was calm and right on time we were driving off the boat and back onto land in Port Melbourne.  Where did that six weeks go?

Arriving after dark we decided to stay overnight beside the beach again and left for the drive home early the next morning.  Just two hours later the van was parked and so began the not so fun task of unpacking.  

And so there ends another adventure in the life and times of Rhossie and Bill.  We have just loved Tasmania and our thoughts of going to 'finish' seeing it have now changed to we must go back and next time for at least three months.  Not just yet but not too long away either.  
We found it such a welcoming and friendly place and just loved the tiny towns we found along the way.  And yes, the roads are narrow, winding and hilly but around each bend is another gorgeous view or fabulous place to stay which makes it all worthwhile.

So as life returns to normal for a little while we'll sign off on the Tasmanian tales now and see what else is happening in our little corner of the world.

until next time......

Monday, May 02, 2016

St Helens and the beautiful Bay of Fires.........

We woke to a glorious but chilly morning, and while it was very tempting to stay put, we decided that we had better move on as there was still so much to see and we had less than two weeks left.  Soon after we hit the road and were on our way to St Helens.  Just a quick stop here for some shopping before we move on to find a home at The Bay of Fires.
We knew there were a number of free camps along the bay so it was just a matter of choosing one and hoping for a site.  We chose Cosy Corner South campground and thought it looked alright but before setting up Bill went for a walk and WOW, just around the corner was an empty site that became our home for the next three nights.  Beachfront camping, a fabulous view and peace perfect peace - sheer bliss.
We chilled out for a couple of hours enjoying the sun, the sand and the orange rocks that the Bay of Fires is famous for.  After lunch we drove to the end of the road to see The Gardens.  This tiny little community seems to be full of holiday homes and we spent some time here enjoying the walk track, the tiny beach and the spectacular lichen covered rocks.  
From the lookout here you can see the entire Bay of Fires.  The information board tells us that the bay gets it name not from the orange rocks but from the fires that were seen all long the bay when the first explorers stepped ashore.
Back at home we relaxed for the rest of the day with just the sound of the waves and the gulls our soundtrack for the afternoon.  Bill found two little Hooded Plovers so spent some time on the beach with them.
The next morning we went exploring and stopped at the next campground along the road.  Swimcart Beach looked very inviting but it seemed it was here that every caravan headed for.  They were lined up right along the beach almost nose to tail.  So different from our secluded spot just one beach away.  I know where I'd rather be!

Our next stop was at Grants Lagoon where fishing was the big attraction.  The campground here was empty and the scene idyllic but we moved on and made our way around to Binalong Bay.  
Here we found another delightful little village full of holiday homes and campgrounds hidden among the acacia trees.  From this lookout at the southern end you can again see the entire Bay of Fires.  A truly spectacular sight.
We drove back into St Helens to have a look at the information centre, the Tin Dragon and a closer look at the little town which is the commercial centre of this north east region.  We found a little market in the lovely old hall and had a wander through.  Just outside the door was the Anzac Memorial and here we found the names of two more of Bill's ancestors who had died serving in WW1 and WW2.

We had lunch in a little local cafe and then returned home to spend the afternoon beside the beach with the plovers, gulls and this pretty funky looking Tern.  
The next morning we dragged ourselves away from the beach and headed inland to the beautiful Pyengana Valley and St Colomba Falls.  On the way we stopped at the Pyengana Dairy Co. where we tasted and bought some very tasty cheese.  The other highlight of the Pyengana Dairy is the robotic dairy and from the outdoor cafe here you can watch the whole process as the cows come in to be milked as they wish.
We watched fascinated as they walk in through a one way gate.  Position themselves in the milking chute where a robotic arm sprays them clean, next the milking cups attach and when finished removes itself and the cow walks out and after a head or back scratch goes out through another one way gate.  Really quite amazing!

Finally dragging ourselves away we continued on to the falls and loved the 90 metre tall cascade that is St Columba falls.  It is said to be Tasmania's most beautiful waterfall.  The walk down, while long, was fairly easy and it is certainly worth it.  It is a pretty spectacular sight and the surrounding rain forests just beautiful.
We made our way back through the valley and continued on to St Helens Point where we found the tiniest little beach called Beerbarrel Beach, no idea why!  Peron Dunes are just around the corner so if it's sand boarding you are into you're good to go.  We weren't but it was a nice view from the lookout here.
We had lunch beside Georges Bay before returning home to enjoy our last afternoon at our idyllic campsite.  While in Tasmania we have stayed in some beautiful places but I think this wonderful little campsite has just won the prize as our most favourite place this trip.

Hard as it was to leave the next morning we did and with only 5 days left made our way across the mountains to Scottsdale where we stopped for lunch and a look in the local 'i' to find out which way to go from here.  We decided to continue on the mountain road and though steep and winding it was a very scenic drive.  We stopped at the lookout at The Sideling and loved the stunning views over Scottsdale and the valleys below.
A little later we were driving through traffic again as we made our way to the outskirts of Launceston looking for our next home at Old Macs Farm and Fishery.  This wonderful campground allows travellers the best of both worlds.  A very picturesque spot to camp close to all the attractions the Tamar Valley and Launceston have to offer and just $10 per night.  What more could you want.
And so we set ourselves up and soon after we were tucked up inside as the glorious weather of the last few days had gone and it was chilly to say the least.  The forecast was 4 deg overnight, thank goodness we have a heater.  For now though we'll say goodnight and tomorrow we explore.

until next time.........