Stuart Highway - from top to bottom ..........

We left Darwin the next morning saying farewell to a very humid and smokey morning.  The weather was changing and I was happy to be on our way at last.  The smoke stayed with us for many km as we headed south and saw many fire flare ups along the way.  One would hope they were all not deliberately lit.  A quick stop at Adelaide River for coffee was followed by a lunch stop at Pine Creek where we had our last Mango Smoothie at Mayse's.  Edith Falls was a welcome sight after a few hours on the road again and we spent two days relaxing in this little piece of paradise.

We settled in once more and soon after were enjoying a cooling swim in that amazing pool.  It is truly an awesome feeling just floating around or swimming and looking up at the sheer cliffs which in the wet season become another waterfall.  One day we must time our visit and take the walks up to the top but this year it was far too hot for me to attempt that.  Even now just two weeks after our first visit it was much hotter which made the very cold water even more welcome.

Of course Bill got up early each morning and went in search of those Gouldian Finches again and this time saw large flocks as well as meeting Bob and Olive, fellow birders/photographers visiting from NSW.   This time there were large numbers of that previously elusive Hooded Parrot with the finches.  Always the way isn't it.  When you're not looking for them they show up everywhere.

Soon it was time to leave again and head back to the highway, we stopped at Katherine to shop and then continued south.  We camped that night in glorious solitude at the WW11 No 45 Camp Hospital site near Larrimah.  There is nothing there now just an information board explaining it's role as set up by the Australian Army.  Well off the road we heard no noise and the stars that night were truly spectacular.

Our days were much longer than on the way up and we were covering lots of km as we headed south. 

We had coffee at Daly Waters Hi-Way Inn, not to be confused with Daly Waters Pub!  Lunch at Elliot and stopped overnight at Attack Creek Rest Area.  We were quite safe and not in danger of any attack here.  I guess there is a story of how it got its name but I haven't found it yet.

The next day saw us having a quick pit stop at Three Ways, where I found this cool mural on the wall.  Tennant Creek was a fuel stop and then it was overnight tucked in behind The Teamster Memorial.  Not really an official camp spot but out of the way and just right for a quick run into Alice Springs the next day.

We stayed in the G'day Mate Caravan Park in Alice Springs as we needed water to wash etc. the clothes that is not us!  And we had power!  It was 38 deg when we arrived and two nights with airconditioning was lovely.  It was a great park and we met our neighbours and found they came from Rosebud where I grew up.  We were actually at school together but a few years apart so we didn't know each other, still what a small world it is eh!  

We went up to Anzac Hill the next morning to see how much things had changed since we were last up there in 2011.  It was very windy and hazy from fires in the distance.  There were a lot more buildings in the immediate area but of course the view of the MacDonnell Ranges stays the same.  That afternoon we shopped and stocked up for a few more days.

That evening we caught a shuttle bus to a spectacular event at The Desert Park.  Parrtjima - A Festival in Light.  The blurb stated - “Parrtjima will be a breathtaking light display that will present the oldest continuous culture on earth through the newest technology on a 300-million-year-old natural canvas." The MacDonnell Ranges were lit up each night in a fabulous light show which showcased local indigenous artists.  That together with the haunting music made for a magical night under the stars.  Our photos of the ranges didn't work but these ones of the beautiful artworks did.

The next morning we headed off again and stayed that night at the NT/SA border.   We drove on the next morning stopping for a break at Marla.  On the way here we had passed a very odd looking vehicle and once there discovered that the World Solar Car Challenge was happening in October and there were many crews out here fine tuning their vehicles.   I don't think I would like to spend 4 or 5 days travelling from Darwin to Adelaide in one of these.   Shame the sun wasn't shining today!

Our next stop was for fuel that afternoon at Coober Pedy.  The landscape around there is just like something out of a science fiction movie but we didn't stay this time just drove a few km out of town and stayed at the Hutchison Memorial rest area.  This huge area of red sand behind the memorial is an ideal place to stop and there were a few of with the same idea but well spaced out so all good.  The light from the sunset was pretty special as it lit up the surrounding land in golden light.

We had a look at the memorial the next day and discovered that it was here where 14 year old Will Hutchinson first found opal in 1915.  Prospecting for gold with his father and some other men he had been left in camp to look after the supplies but disobeyed orders and wandered off looking for water around the foothills of a nearby range.  When he arrived back late that night he not only had a bag full of opal but he had found a supply of good fresh water.  They pegged the claim 8 days later on the 9th Feb and by the middle of 1916 many miners had moved to the area.

We drove on to Pimba where we passed the large salt lakes, Lake Hart and Island Lagoon.  We stayed overnight at Spuds Roadhouse and had dinner there.  The next morning we drove the 6 km or so out to Woomera Village.   It is here at RAAF Woomera Test Range that you will find the worlds largest test and evaluation site.  Or so the sign said.  The prohibited area covers 127,000 sqkm or an area rougly the size of England or the US state of Forida.  There are 27 pastoral stations within the prohibited area and four major mines.   The only part of this area we can access is the Stuart Highway as it passes through the middle of the range.

We spent a couple of hours looking around the Woomera National Aerospace and Missile Park which  showcases the many rockets that have been tested there.  What an interesting place.  With accommodation available to house many people there are only 143 residents at the moment.  All is kept tidy but it has a real ghost town feel about it.

Leaving all things rockets we drove back to the highway and headed into Port Augusta where we stayed the Motorhome and RV Park at the sports club.  Last time we stayed here there was an awful smell from the power station across the estuary but now with that closed it is a really pleasant place to stop.  And we struck it lucky, the sports club was open for dinner so I got another night off cooking.

We stayed an extra day here as we wanted to visit the Australian Arid Land Gardens where Bill was hoping to find the little White Winged Fairy Wren and yes he did find them and they played nicely this time.  I just loved these sculptured blowflies on the wall.  We spent a few hours wandering around here and like last time really enjoyed this lovely place.  That afternoon we watched the AFL Grand Final and were very happy with the result.  We didn't tell the South Australians though!

And so our trip along the Stuart Highway was complete.  We had driven the 2,834 km from Darwin to Port Augusta and while it certainly was a long haul, overall it was an interesting trip though I don't think I'm in any rush to do it again.  We still have a way to go before we get home so we carried on driving and made our way to Peterborough where we stayed for the long weekend in their fabulous free camp.  It was lovely just to sit and relax for a couple of days.

Leaving Peterborough behind we passed a sign for Historic Terowie.  We drove in and had a drive around the streets.  There are a number of heritage listed buildings here but it was the railway line that made Terowie famous.  The break of gauge occurred here with the broad gauge line from the south ending and the narrow gauge line continuing 20 km north to Peterborough where lines from Perth, Alice Springs, Broken Hill and later Sydney met.  Once home to around 900 people it is now something of a ghost town.

Terowrie is also the place where General Douglas MacArthur made his famous speech regarding the Battle of the Philippines in which he said "I came out of Bataan and I shall return."  He made this speech on the station here while transferring trains.  There is a plaque commemorating this speech on the now disused platform.

From here we made our way to Burra Gorge at Worlds End Reserve and we spent two days enjoying nature at this lovely place.  Since leaving the Northern Territory the weather had cooled down and now we were back in layers and the quilt was back on the bed.  Love the cooler weather but of course Bill is constantly threatening to turn the car around and find the heat.  We'll see about that.

The next day it was time to leave and we headed off with pit stops at Eudunda and Waikerie before crossing the SA/Vic border and stopping for the night at a rest area just out of Mildura.  Nothing fancy but it did the job.  

The next day was a bit of a magical mystery tour as we made our way across Victoria going through Ouyen then cross country to Lascelles where we found this wonderful silo art.  This is one of the many that make an art trail through Victoria.  One day we'll find some more.

We drove from here to Birchip and Charlton before stopping for the night at Skinners Flat Reservoir at Wedderburn.  What a lovely place and we were rewarded with a stunning sunset for our last night on the road.

It was hard to leave the next morning but we were soon back on the road stopping at the wonderful Heathcote Bakery for some lunch before our final push for home.  We arrived early afternoon and soon the van was parked again and then the hard work began.  Unpacking is not quite as much fun as packing but it has to be done.  Fish and chips for dinner that night made life easy and the 4 deg night meant the heater went on pretty early.  Still it's good to be home! 

And so after two and a half months away this time and approx 13,000km it's time to sit still for a little while.  We have had a fabulous trip seeing lots of new places and revisiting many old favourites.  It was wonderful to catch up with friends along the way and enjoy some time with them.  For now though we get back into life at home and enjoy the rest.

until next time.......

Darwin.....destination reached.....

We joined Josie and Nolan for sunset drinks at Nightcliff and as always had a lovely time enjoying the beautiful sunset and wonderful company.  It was such a lovely evening we all decided that fish and chips was the way to go so it was quite late and cool when we said goodbye and returned to our campsite in Berrimah.  We also met the 'new girl' in their life and fell in love with the gorgeous Maggie. At just 9 weeks old she is only the size of a kitten but what she lacks in size she makes up for in cuteness overload.

While here in Darwin Bill was going to get out early each morning to visit some favourite spots to see what birds he could find.  He did this and was rewarded with some lovely shots of this little Rainbow Pitta.  I decided that I was having enough trouble with sandfly bites without hanging out near creeks and mangroves so I got to sleep in each day.

The next night we joined Josie and Nolan again for dinner at The Wharf.   A balmy evening, another beautiful sunset and a full moon made for a magic night in the tropics.  Of course good food and good company helped too.    

The next morning, once Bill was home, we made our way to Parap Markets.  We enjoyed wandering around checking out all the stalls.  We managed to restrain ourselves just buying a watermelon juice for  morning tea.  From here we visited Virginia, Toby and Beau who lived just around the corner.  We spent a few hours catching up and loved seeing how much these two little boys have grown up since we last saw them.   We talked so much that we forgot to take any photos so Virginia has very kindly let me use these ones taken on her birthday last week.

That afternoon we packed our little bag and drove to Josie and Nolan's place.  We were having a BBQ and staying overnight with them.  Once again a great night was had, a lovely dinner and lots and lots of fun with Maggie.  The next morning we drove to the Nightcliff markets where we got some breakfast from the many food stalls and then we drove over to the jetty to eat.  Much nicer than a bowl of cereal at the kitchen bench.

After we said goodbye to our wonderful hosts we stopped to have a look at the shopping centre at Casurina, it had air conditioning, we didn't, before heading home.  Later we drove back to Mindel Beach for the market and the sunset.  A must do whenever we visit Darwin.

The next morning Bill had to take the car in for some work on the air con so Virginia picked him up, came and collected me and took us back to their place so we could stay cool.  We had a wonderful few hours with her and Beau.  Poor Greg was very sick with 'Man Flu' after coming home from a work trip in Alice Springs.  Of course we all gave him grief only to discover the next day after his visit to the Dr that this flu was very real and very nasty.  So glad you are well now. 

After we picked the car up we returned to Nightcliff for sunset drinks with Josie and Nolan.  This really is a way of life up here and the foreshore is quite busy each night as people gather to enjoy the cooler temperatures and watch the sunsets.  Some sit and talk, others eat and drink, some walk, run, exercise or just enjoy the evening.  It really is a lovely way to wind down after a busy day.

The next day Bill and I went into Darwin City to have a look around.  Having been here many times before we were quite surprised to see it looking less than active.  There are many empty shops and hardly anyone in the Smith St Mall at all.  I think the fact that it is only paid parking in all the surrounding streets keeps people out and in the suburbs where parking is free.  It certainly can't be any good for the few shops that are left in there.

That evening we joined our dear friend Peter Miller at his home for dinner.  What a treat we had.  The delicious NT Barramundi with Cajun Black Pepper was cooked to perfection and Peter's famous Christmas Cake for desert finished off a wonderful evening on the deck.  Of course the Champagne didn't hurt either.  It was so lovely to see you again and thank you so much for a lovely evening.

Bill's morning outings continued and he found this rather inquisitive Imperial Pigeon at the Botanical Gardens one morning.  By the time he arrived home each morning I had the washing done and tidied up.  During the day we kept cool in the shops or MacDonalds where there was a double bonus.  Free wifi and air con plus good coffee.  

We joined Virginia, Greg, Toby and Beau for a BBQ at their place one night after Greg had recovered from his dreaded lurgy.  It was a wonderful night and another delicious meal.  Thank you so much and I will always remember our time here with you guys.  Next time we visit you will be much closer and much cooler.  Enjoy Tasmania!

The next day we drove around to see Buffalo Creek, Lee Point, East Arm all of where Bill had been taking photos each morning.  The crocodile signs at Buffalo Creek didn't thrill me but he assured me he is quite safe and stays well away from any danger.  Think I'll continue to stay home. 

That evening we returned to Mindel Beach for our last market and sunset here.  A different look from the other night but always lovely.  

We had been here in Darwin now for longer than we had originally intended so we thought we should have one more sunset drinks to say goodbye to Josie and Nolan.  We had our final dinner at the Sailing Boat Club and once again good food, wine and wonderful company made for a fun night out. So for now we say a fond farewell to you both again, thanks for sharing your wonderful sunsets with us and we look forward to next time.  Enjoy your holiday in Bali next month.

The next day we shopped and got ready for our departure but as we came home we could see lots of smoke.  There was a big bushfire in the grassland opposite where we were staying.  Lots of smoke and flames but burnt out very quickly and no danger to us at all.  Waking up the next morning was very smoky but the wind soon blew it away.  

We packed up and were soon ready to head off again, this time heading south and back home to Victoria.  Google maps tell us we have 3751km to drive.  Bill was still watching the temperature at home and is still convinced it is too cold to return while I am looking forward to a few weeks where I won't melt.  I have found Darwin a little too hot for me and have been very thankful for the fact that the real humidity has not started yet.  

And so we leave once more to take the more direct route straight down the middle of this big, big country.  

until next time......