Station stays and National Parks........

After leaving Umagico we drove straight to the ferry, crossed the Jardine River again and continued south.  On our way we noticed there are many more cars, campers and caravans on the road now and in places the road is not so smooth as it was on our way up.

We drove on and made our way to Moreton Telegraph Station where we were going to spend a couple of days.  Located on the Wenlock River Moreton TS is a lovely green oasis after a long day on a dusty road.

The station was one of six constructed to service the new electric telegraph line on Cape York Peninsula in 1886.  In the late 1920’s the high cost of maintenence and low traffic on the line prompted the Post Master General to consider closing some of the stations.  As short wave radio had been introduced at Thursday Island it was felt that alternate stations could be closed without seriously affecting the service.  Moreton TS was closed in 1987 after almost 100 years of service.

 The station is now a stop on many Cape York Safaris.  While we were there we saw a group of people riding to the tip on Mountain Bikes via the Old Telegraph Track.  The next day another group came in on dirt bikes and another group arrived in an Outback Spirit Tour bus on their way back from the tip. All were loving their experiences.

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay here.  Lovely green grass with lots of bird life. We were here to find birds of course and top of Bill’s wish list was the Magnificent Rifle Bird.  The Sacred Kingfishers and Rainbow Bee Eaters kept Bill busy and he did manage to get a photo of the rifle bird but not one he’s happy to share.  Looks like we have to wait for another chance.

We left here after two very relaxing days and made our way towards Iron Range (Kutini Payamu) National Park.  Qld National Parks have to be booked online and this can prove difficult to choose a suitable site that allows for sunlight needed for solar.  We had our fingers crossed that the site description of sunshine was good as we don’t travel with a generator or separate solar panels.

We stopped at Chuulangun Camping Area overnight on our way to Iron Range.  This bush camp is run by the local indigineous people and while very basic it is a nice stop to break the long journey in the national park.

The next morning we began the long slow drive into Chili Beach where we were staying for the next five days.  The trip in takes a while as there are many dips and ford crossings and slowly is the only way to go.  Both the Wenlock and Pascoe Rivers have to be crossed as well.  The first half of the road into the National Park was very rough but improved as we went.  A very large sealed section saw us arrive at the boundary of the park in style.

Now I would like to tell you that the road stayed like this but I guess you have figured out that is not the case.  From here you are driving through thick lowland tropical rainforest and the roads are damp and muddy with three very steep muddy creek crossings.  We managed them all quite easily though how I’m not so sure.  Apparently the park had just been opened and it had still been raining recently turning the roads to deep muddy ruts.  We took it slowly and got through ok but I was certainly hoping the roads would dry before we left again.

We arrived at our camp site, no 22, later in the afternoon and while huge there was a lot more shade than we were hoping for.  Still, we’d be right for a few days so if need be we could always leave early.

Chili Beach is on the East Coast of the Cape York Peninsula and is known by all who visit for it’s beautiful views and never ceasing wind.  Camping in a van we were not bothered by the wind but how anyone in a tent survives I don't know.

We set up and had a walk through the forest around us and of course a walk along the beach.  Once again there is a fair amount of rubbish brought in by the current but they do regular clean ups.  One morning I found a car tyre that had washed up the night before.  Signs here tell us that one of the clean up efforts cleared 5 tons of rubbish.  Not so hard to imagine after a walk along here though.

Right in front of you is Restoration Island where Captain Bligh first landed on his journey after the mutiny on the Bounty.  We enjoyed the next couple of days relaxing and wandering through the walks looking for birds of this area.  The Double Eyed Fig Parrots were regular visitors but hard to catch.

We had fun on our third day when we decided we needed more sun to charge our batteries fully so we took the van around to a sunny site on the beach which was empty.  Site 14 did the trick, and leaving the van there for the day while we wandered between both camps, filled the batteries and we returned the van to our site ready to last out the next two days.

The following day we packed a picnic and made our way back through the National Park to the first camping areas where most of the rainforest birds are.  Cooks Hut, Gordons Creek and Rainforest campgrounds are ideal places to find many of the endemic species here.

While walking through here we met a lovely family staying at Rainforest.  Andrew, Min and their two young boys were into their birds and we enjoyed an hour or two with them as their little camp was alive with birds.  A female Magnificent Rifle Bird was a great find though camera shy and the male still proved elusive.  The Emerald Dove was a lot happier to sit for Bill.

The other bird Bill was after was the Electus Parrot.  The guys told us where to find them and we did see them but this is as good as it gets as they would not budge at all from this nesting hole.

From here we drove around to have a look at the Lockhart River Community.  In the 1930’s a misson was established near the mouth of the Lockhart River then re-established after WW11 to the south.  It was relocated to the current sight in 1968.  We found a very different feel here than the communities at the tip.  We had a look at the Arts Centre which is home to many world renowned artists.  Some very nice work there but none that we wanted to bring home just now.

We drove around to the coast and were fascinated by the different rock formations.  Another cool and windy day saw us jump back in the car and return to the National Park.  The roads were drying out nicely too.

One last stop for the day was to Historic Portland Roads.  This tiny little settlement is still in name a registered port and an important anchorage for the commercial fishing fleet and yachts travelling the world.

A jetty built in 1938 and extended in 1943 made this area one of the key defense bases in Northern Australia during WW11.  Thousands of US and Australian personnel were stationed in Iron Range at the time of the Battle of the Coral Sea and the New Guinea campaign.  Unfortunately there is nothing left today to even hint at this history.

The next morning Bill returned to Rainforest campground and spent the morning wth the birds again.  The Spectacled Monarch seemed happy to pose for him.  The afternoon was spent getting ready for our departure the next day.

Rain was forecast again and we were hoping it would hold off until we were gone.  This was not too be!  It rained overnight and the partially dry roads had become very wet and slippery again.  Large puddles of water in places added to the experience - what fun!

It was a very dirty drive out and the three deep muddy crossings we saw on the way in were even worse now but once again they posed no problem.  Once out of the National Park the rain stopped and we continued our journey slowly towards the PDR once more.

From here we drove north again towards Weipa but soon after turned off the road into Merluna Station where we stayed for two nights.  It was sheer luxury to camp on lush green grass again and enjoy lovely hot showers.

Merluna Station is a 417,000 acre beef cattle property. Michelle and Cameron offer camping and  helped in the busy season by Jenni and Paul they make everyone feel very welcome.  They also offer home cooked meals with themselves and the workers of an evening and on our first night we couldn’t say no to roast beef and all the trimmings.  Jenni’s butterscotch self saucing pudding was pretty good too.

Bill had a wonderful time here with Paul, also a keen bird photograhper, as they did some walks and found quite a few birds. This lovely Graceful Honeyeater came in each afternoon to drink at the homestead.

Holding pride of place in the office is BB the Bull.  He was a feral bull who over the years became tame and used to be fed mangoes by all the staff.  When it was time for him to leave this earth Michelle decided to immortalise him and so now he looks over all her work.  Of course he is still a favourite with all the guests as we line up to have a pic with him.

The next day we said our farewells and drove back out to the PDR.  Next stop Weipa.

until next time.......

More Cape York adventures.....

Waking up the next morning it was all go as we packed a picnic and then set off to join Liz and Carl on a 4WD adventutre.  We were going with them to drive the 5 beaches track, something we had never done before.  The extent of our off road experience has been rough but fairly easy roads.

We met at the Croc Tent and from there drove out to Somerset Beach.  From this small beach you look across the strait to Albany Island and you can see the few holiday shacks there.

A short drive away we stopped at the settlement ruins where there is some old machinery, cannons and some graves. This was once the place of the earliest permanent white settlement on the Cape York Peninsula and the only one for quite some time.

Back in the car we drove around to Fly Point where we really had to hang on to our hats or they would have been blown away.  The rough seas below were like a washing machine gone mad.

This is the start of the 5 beaches trail and with Liz and Carl leading and sending instructions by radio, we followed.

The 5 beaches are all beautiful small bays joined by the rather rough track.  We stopped at the first beach, Freshwater Bay, and all went for a trek to the top of the large sand dune.  I went halfway and took photos.  Seems Bill got this one of me first.  Remember the wind, it was still blowing and both Liz and Bill lost their hats here. Lucky they both had spares in the car.

One feature of all these beaches up here is the amount of flotsam, read rubbish, that is washed up each day.  We had a walk along Nanthau Beach and found many thongs, plastic containers of all sorts, car and boat parts, ropes, bouys and fishing gear.  It all washes in from the seas above Australia.

We stopped and had our picnic at Narau beach and Brock loved splashing around in the shallow creek while I kept a wary eye out for crocs. No one else seemed worried.

We finished our great adventure at the next beach, which I must say I thorougly enjoyed.  A little more extreme than we are used too but with Liz and Carl in front and guiding we loved the drive and the experience.  Still not ready to tackle it alone but would be happy to tag along again.

From here we drove back inland to have a look at the DC3 plane wreck before saying farewell to Liz and Carl.  This Plane Wreckage is preserved as a war memorial that commemorates the crash of VH-CXD in 1945 which claimed six lives.

We decided that Saturday should be a quiet day just right for shopping.  We found the supermarket at Bamaga, a little more expensive than at home, but there was a fair variety and the fruit and vegetables were fresh.  After we completed that task we headed back to relax for the afternoon.

Later that evening we returned to the wharf to watch the fishing endeavours of Liz, Carl and the locals. Lots of Queen Fish being caught with live bait but once again only the locals who had any luck.  We met another couple who told us about the great fish and chips at the Seisia Fishing Club. They had been the night before so the four of us decided that would be good.  Not so, fish and chips are only on Friday but Crumbed Crayfish and salad tonight.  Sounded good and tasted even better.  We sat and talked for a couple of hours before saying goodbye.  Liz and Carl were leaving on Monday and us on Tuesday.  Perhaps we’ll meet up again somewhere on our travels.  We really have enjoyed their company and hope they enjoy their travels around Australia.

We woke the next morning to a very overcast day and before we knew it we had a fine drizzle that seemed to hang around for most of the day.  We decided that we would have another go at trying to find the Magnificent Rifle Bird and so headed back to the rainforest.  Once again no luck, just butterflies today and we left with our car covered in mud from the drive in.

With a half day still ahead of us we decided that we may as well explore the west side of the NPA and so drove out to Muttee Head where there is the remains of a WWII Radar and the mouth of the Jardine River.  We didn’t venture there as everyone had told us people were getting bogged.

We met a lovely couple camping at the small beach there before getting back in our mud pack on wheels and returning home.  A fun but thoroughly messy day.

I don’t know how to describe it here at Cape York in the NPA.  Very remote yet suburban in the town areas.  Just like anywhere each community’s a little different.  With a population of around 2000 over 7 or 8 communities the local people are lovely and friendly and the roaming dogs and horses just add to the character of the place.   Like Norfolk Island where the cows roam free, here it is the horses. Apparently all are owned but it is cheaper to let them roam than to agist them.  They all seem to be in good condition and very at ease with the traffic.

Another thing we discovered here was the many different ways you can visit this amazing place. We met many people who like us drove all the way up with caravans, campers or tents.  For those who are not quite so adventurous, or some would say mad, there are easier ways to get here.  We met quiet a few folk who had joined tours and travelled up on small 4WD buses.  Also met many others on tag along tours which included mountain bikes, motor cycles, 4WD and Caravans.  And then there was the really easy way.  Flights from Cairns to Horn Island bring people up and then they catch the ferry across to Seisia.  

Probably the most unique way is to travel up by sea on board the cargo ship MV Trinity Bay. This is an 81 metre working cargo vessel built to carry freight between Cairns and Seisia via Horn and Thursday Islands.  It is the only working cargo vessel in Australia that also carries passengers with a total of 48 berths over 15 cabins.  It travels inside the reef with land in sight for most of the way.  It didn’t matter how they came but everyone we met, young and old, were all enjoying their time at this northern most point of Australia.

For us it was also time to think about leaving our beautiful beach front location and see about exploring more of the Cape York Peninsula on our way back south.  We took some time on Monday to get ready to travel again.  Shopping, washing, making the van ready and just chilling out for the afternoon and watching a ship unload freight across at the Seisia Pier.

The next morning we hooked up, had a final breakfast by the beach and soon after headed out of Umagico to begin our journey south.  We intend to take our time and explore lots on our way down.

Until next time ........

Exploring ‘The Tip’ and beyond.......

We woke up to a glorious morning and after a lesiurely breakfast decided that today we would make it to ‘The Tip’.  We drove out and followed the signs to Panjinka (the tip) first of all stopping at the  famous Croc Tent to pick up our free map and get all the info on the road conditions.

Leanne and her husband Dale run the Croc Tent after having taken over when her parents wanted to retire. Lovely people and so helpful with all sorts of info on all things Cape York. And plenty of souveniers too!

It is about 30 Km from Bamaga to ‘the tip’ and the track takes you through the Lockerbie Rainforest. This can get very muddy in the wet, a fact we found out a few days later when it rained, but today it was fairly dry.

Armed with our map we left here and continued up to Pajinka and joined the many other cars parked at Frangipani Beach. It was a lovely little beach and at low tide you could walk around to the tip but our timing was not quite right so it was up and over for us.

I had been told that it was a bit of a scramble over rocks to reach the actual ‘tip’ but I didn’t realise that I needed to be a mountain goat to get there.   It is a bit of a climb up and over a rocky hill but armed with my trusty trekking pole I managed it alright, though very slowly.  A chap coming along behind me fell and couldn’t go any further.  We met him later that day and he had 20 stitches in his leg.  Some young guys had helped him back to his car.

It certainly was a great sense of achievement and relief when I made it.  Of course we took the obligatory photos and some nice bloke took this one of us together.  After about 15 mins at the northernmost point on the Australian Continent it was time to retrace our steps up and over that hill again. It was very windy too which just added to the degree of difficulty.

We made it back to solid flat ground again and we were just about to get in the car when the couple next to us started to talk to Bill about the car.  Since travelling with the 76 series Landcruiser it seems to be a talking point at most places we stop.  Other Landcruiser drivers love to find out about all the modifications you have done and how well they perform.  And so we had a long chat to Liz and Carl about all things cars, roads and travel. They seem really nice people and I think we could be friends. We’ll see them again I’m sure.

Leaving them and their dog, Brock, to explore we made our way around to Punsand Bay and found a very nice resort/campground and another lovely little beach.

From here we made our way in to Seisia to talk to the people at the campground there.  We had been told that we should find Palm Cockatoos here and were asking if this was so.  The lovely girl told us yes, every morning and evening they could be found in the beach almond trees along the front. Also over at the wharf.  We came back that evening and Bill did get a photo or two but none that he was happy with so we enjoyed watching the sunset from the wharf and watching the locals fishing.

The next morning we had an early start as we had booked a trip to Thursday Island.  At the wharf we met Liz and Carl again and soon were chatting like old friends.  The trip across to the Island takes about 70 mins and once there we all caught the bus for the TI tour.  This tour takes about 90 mins and includes a visit to Green Hill Fort, the town centre and the Cemetery where we saw the Japanese Pearl Divers Memorial.

The history of Green Hill Fort was very interesting and the views from the hill just beautiful.  We learnt that Green Hill Fort was built between 1891-1893 as part of Australia's defence against a possible Russian invasion.  It was eventually decommissioned some time in 1927 and the buildings were demolished and the guns were spiked.  Green Hill is a small grassy hill about 58 metres above sea level at the western end of Thursday Island.

The underground bunkers are now full of memrobilia and some of the old photos are truly amazing when you think of the time and place they were taken.

Once the tour was over half of the bus returned to the wharf to catch a boat to Horn Island for another tour.  We had been too late for this so had some free time here.

We returned to the beautiful church we had passed and enjoyed taking some time to look at the beautiful stained glass windows.  All Souls and St Bartholomew's Cathedral Church, along with the Church Hall and the Bishops House was built as a memorial to the 134 lives lost in the shipwreck of the RMS Quetta on 28 February 1890.  The Church was designed in 1892-1893 by architect John H. Buckeridge.  Our tour guide told us it is the smallest Cathederal in the world.

We had lunch at the Gab Titiu cultural centre and enjoyed a look at the art gallery there.  Soon after we returned to the wharf to catch the ferry back to the mainland.  It was a wonderful day out and we had thoroughly enjoyed seeing this very different part of Australia.

The next morning Bill got up early and returned to the wharf and was rewarded with some wonderful pictures of the seven or eight Palm Cockatoos that came in.  I stayed home to wash and had my own encounter with one of the gorgeous birds as one walked around our campground.

Later that day we had a walk through the Lockerbie rainforest to see if we could find the Magnificent Rifle Bird. No luck today so drove back to Loyalty Beach to have a look there before returning home for a quite afternoon in.

We returned to the wharf that evening and met Liz and Carl again as they tried their luck fishing.  The locals gave them some tips but I hope they had left some meat out as fish was not on the menu that night.  We enjoyed the cool evening on the wharf and it was dark when we returned home for our dinner.

Our days here have been filled with amazing views, rainforest walks and friendly locals.  There is too much to tell here in one story so I’ll leave you now and be back tomorrow.

until next time.......

And so to Cape York........

It was time to begin our big adventure in earnest. We had everything we needed to set off on our journey to the 'tip'. The cupboards and fridge were full, the tanks were full and the car was fuelled up. We said farewell to Linda and Trevor on a foggy Mareeba morning and headed north. We'll see you on the way back.

We had decided that we would drive straight up before it got too busy and hopefully enjoy our time there without the hordes. We would then take our time on the return journey visiting all the places we wanted to see.

The epic journey to Cape York traces the route of the historic Overland Telegraph Line through the Cape, to the northern most tip of Australia. Along the way you travel along the Peninsula Development Road, (PDR) Telegraph Rd (TR) and Bamaga Rd. Or of course you could do it the hard way on the Old Telegraph Track (OTT) - we didn’t!

Our first day saw us driving over familiar ground as we made our way to Laura. Expecting to run out of bitumen here we were surprised to see that it continued on for some time finally ceasing just before Kennedy River. The gravel road we continued on was in good condition. We stopped soon after and camped at a rest stop beside the Kennedy river.

The next morning we continued on to Hann River Roadhouse. The road was sealed again from Rocky Creek until just after the North Kennedy River and again for 9 km before the roadhouse. We bought fuel here and had a chat to the lady there who told us the road was pretty good all the way up. We'll see!

We stopped next at Musgrave Station, had a walk and a look around. The road had been great to there and we had crossed 10 shallow water crossings. 

 We were told here that the next section to Coen had not been graded and was very rough. A bit of an understatement I think. It was a very slow rough drive on all the unsealed sections and 8 more water crossings along the way. Thankfully the long winding climb up Bamboo Ridge had been sealed. We crossed the Great Dividing Range here again and continued on to Coen where we stayed the night at the 'S'Exchange Hotel. Not sure who added the 'S' but they seem to like it!

The next morning we had a look around before we left but as it was Sunday the Cape York Heritage House was closed. A bit of a shame but we might get lucky on the way back. So was the Quarantine Station so we couldn't pick up our information pack. I'm sure we'll figure it out before we come back down. I wasn't happy when I got stung by wasps while checking out the water taps. First time ever and boy did it sting.

We continued on to Archer River Roadhouse. We found this huge chair here saying that it was Russ Hinze chair. He must have visited. The road from here was sealed right up to the Telegraph Road turnoff. We thought we would drive to Moreton Telegraph Station but the road was so good with just 5 small water crossings on that section that we continued on and stopped for the night at Bramwell Junction Roadhouse. We camped here overnight and of course had to photograph the famous number plate tree the next morning.

We left soon after on the Bamaga Rd and today we made our only side trip along the way stopping at Fruit Bat Falls to check out the waterfall. It really is a beautiful sight and the lovely couple who were about to swim stayed out of the water so we could take photos. We would have loved to see Elliot Falls but apparently there was a huge water crossing that challenged even camper trailers so that is on the list for another time. As you couldn't camp there at Fruit Bat Falls we just had lunch and continued on toward our destination.

About 10 km out from the Jardine River the road changed dramatically and we shook and rattled our way up to the ferry. Apparently Bamaga look after this bit of road and the graders were working out at the 'tip'. We wondered what the other side would be like! We purchased our ticket to cross the river. $130.00 for a car and trailer return. It's about a 2 min ride, not a bad lark eh but as its the only way over there isn't much choice.

From this point in our journey we were travelling through the NPA, Northern Peninsula Area. Leaving the ferry we were pleasantly surprised to find the roads in good condition and about 90 mins later we arrived at our destination. 

 Alau Beach Campground in Umagico was where we had chosen to stay and what a truly idyllic place it was. We set up right on the beach front with gorgeous views of the islands and Endeavour Strait. No swimming allowed though as with a resident crocodile and marine stingers the beach is only for admiring.

We were so glad that we had arrived at last so no more big drives for a few days. Apart from the two rough patches the roads up had been in great condition with large sections sealed. Eventually the Peninsula Development Road will all be sealed right up to Weipa. The Telegraph Road and the Bamaga Development Road is partially sealed as well and I imagine they will continue with that too though maybe not as quickly.

And so for the rest of the day we settled down under the awning to watch the world go by and the sun set. We'll explore tomorrow

until then........