Keep up to date with Rhos and Bill as they enjoy life in country Victoria and places beyond. Photos by Bill and Rhos

Wednesday, October 01, 2014

Admirals Arch, Seals and really Remarkable Rocks.......

were the order of our next days exploration.  We were woken early by the very noisy Cape Barren Geese.  Who would have thought in the middle of nowhere there could be such noise.  These geese roam freely in large numbers and throughout the campground area have right of way just as the cows and chooks did on Norfolk Island.  They are a lovely looking bird but as we were to discover so very vocal and very noisy!  They were our alarm clock for the next three mornings and they certainly didn't have a snooze button!
We started our day with breakfast followed by a coffee and a look around the visitors centre.  Then we hit the road to drive to Cape du Couedic at the South West end of the island to see the famous Admirals Arch.  Pictured on most of the tourist material I wondered how it would stand up in real life.  Well I can tell you now it didn't disappoint.  

The view from the car park is worth the drive, even if there was nothing else to see.  But of course on Kangaroo Island this would never happen.  
Looking past the historic Cape du Couedic Light station the Casuarina Islets take centre stage as the Southern Ocean pound around their bases.  A closer look shows you the many New Zealand Fur Seals sunning themselves on the exposed rock ledges as the waves crash below them.  
Walking further along the boardwalk to the lookout on the edge of the cliff you can see Weirs Cove and Remarkable Rocks in the distance.  From here it just looks like a pimple on a pumpkin!  Still no Arch though!

A staircase led down from the lookout and as we descended we found many more NZ Fur seals playing on the rocks here. The tide was out and they were just loving the many rock pools and sunny ledges left exposed.
We continued our descent and as we turned the last corner there right in front of us was the most spectacular sight I had seen all week.  Admirals Arch looks just as it does on all the brochures but to stand right beside it and see how intricate the lacework like features are is something else again.  
Admirals Arch is a cavern in Limestone sitting above sloping bedrock.  It has been a work in progress for the last 500 million years according to geological information at the sight.  Erosion over the years from the wind and the wild waters of the southern ocean have created this most amazing feature in the cliffs below the light station.  

We found more fur seals playing in the rougher waters through the arch as well.  Over 7000 New Zealand Fur Seals call Cape du Couedic home.  The boardwalk/staircase at this point was quiet slippery indicating that at high tide this area we were standing in must be under water.  So glad we timed it right to see this amazing place up close.  Finally we turned around and made our way back to the top but not without many stops along the way watching the funny fur seals and one very cute little Sooty Oyster Catcher playing chicken with the incoming tide.  
Back at the top we made our way to the light station and had a look here at the stories on display.  It was first opened in 1909 after many shipwrecks, including the doomed Loch Vennachar, came to an unfortunate end on these cliffs.  
The light station keepers lived with their families about 3 Kms away at Weirs cove and had to walk to work along the edge of the cliff.  A very remote existence to say the least.  We drove around.
At Weirs Cove we found the remains of a jetty, water tank and storeroom.  We also found the remains of the flying fox that was used to bring up building materials and other supplies from the bottom of the sheer cliffs.  An amazing feat for that time.

We left here and drove the rest of the way to our next stop, The Remarkable Rocks.  Once again these feature heavily in all it the tourist material so we knew what we would see but just like Admirals Arch to see them at close range and walk among them was a special treat.
Leaving the car park we found some wag had been at work and this was our first sight of the Remarkable Rocks!

The rocks are to be found at Kirkpatrick Point a short drive from Cape du Couedic.  The guide book tells us 'they are a group of isolated granite boulders, some 4 to 5 meters high, of unusual and fantastic shapes, sitting on a large dome of granite'.  
From a distance these look like many things, some people see castles, decayed teeth and the head of a bird of prey.  Some people have likened them to a herd of animals.   I could see an eagles head, elephant and a big funny face.  But most of all they really are Remarkable Rocks and very well worth the visit to see them.
Walking around and through these giant rocks you really feel so tiny and insignificant in the scheme of things.  The rocks themselves have formed over millions of years through the breakup and weathering of a large sheet on the crest of the dome which is about 350 meters in diameter and 30 meters high.  
Back in the car park we had a final look at this spectacular sight and then headed back home for lunch.  On the way we stopped for a look back at this unique stretch of road.  Bill spent a half hour or so getting his pictures here, some on his tummy in the middle of the road.  Lucky there were very few cars out that day!
After lunch we decided to pop down the road to check out Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary.  We were here to see 'the Koala Walk'.  Koalas are one of the islands most famous characters.  Introduced to the island many years ago their numbers have expanded in this pristine environment.  The 'blurb' says you don't have to look too far to find one.  Well so far to this point in time we had not seen any and so were on a mission today to find at least one of these furry little creatures.
The koala walk is in fact just an avenue of gumtrees on the property outside the sanctuary itself.  For a lesser fee you can take a walk along here and are guaranteed to spot a little furry bundle or two.  Each morning the owners place a little flag where they see them and with a bit of luck they will stay there for the day.  We were in luck and found five very cute koalas, as usual very high up in the gums doing not much as always.  It was worth the effort to see them and on the way back down the avenue Bill found a little nest with some baby Wattlebirds.  A little dark for really good pictures though we did get a few and we didn't get a chance to go back again.
Leaving the koalas and birds we drove home again this time to stay, relax and a little later have dinner and a movie before crawling into a very welcome bed.  It had been another big day.  Tomorrow we are off the explore the North West corner.

until then..........

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