Exploring the Flinders Ranges.......

The next morning we got up early and my first stop was to the shop to buy some more pegs.  When we went to do the washing the night before we discovered that I only had about 12 pegs and I had three loads of washing to do.  So it was one load then, creatively hung up by Bill, and two loads the next morning once we had purchased the necessary items.  With the domestic goddess duties done it was time to decide where to go first.

Our next discovery was to find that we had an upstairs neighbour.  Our bush camp site was surrounded by large trees and it was right above us we saw a lovely bird fly in and looked up to see a beautiful Masked Wood Swallow settling down on a nest.  The other bird had just got off and when it was satisfied all was well it seemed 'the changing of the guard' was complete and it flew off - for breakfast and some exercise perhaps.  We watched them perform this swap around numerous times during our stay and were delighted to have such  lovely companions while we were there.

We visited the tourist information centre next and found some maps of the area and the lovely girls gave us some ideas of where to go and what to see.  Armed with the maps we set off mid morning to have a look at the Aboriginal art site at Arkaroo Rock about a 30 min drive from Wilpena.  This was a fairly easy 3 km walk track taking you up towards Rawnsley Bluff with some great views along the way.  At one spot on a large flat rock we turned and were rewarded with an amazing view across to the Elder Range.

We continued to climb a bit further before coming to our destination.  This huge overhanging rock was covered with rock art and sadly has been fenced off, no doubt to protect it from damage from vandals and so save it for future generations.  A very sad reflection of some people today but another large rock further down the track had been graffitied badly making it impossible to see the artwork that had been there for so many centuries before.

The track down continued as a loop not quite as spectacular as the way up but gave us the opportunity to see a family of Mulga parrots taking advantage of a small puddle in the rocks below and attending to their morning ablutions.  We watched in fascination for ages before continuing our walk back to the car.

On our way back home we stopped at some lookouts along the way.  First stop was to see the Elder Range behind us and Rawnsley Bluff and the South East Rim of the pound in front of us.  

From the second viewing point we could see the peaks along the ridge in front of us.  Iluka Peak, Point Bonnie, Tumburru Peak and Mt Karawarra.  And looking the other way we were looking at part of the ABC ranges, so called because the explorers that found them thought they had 26 peaks.  There are many more than that as they run right through the Flinders Ranges National Park but they still retain their name.

Back home we had lunch before heading out again to drive the other way to see what we could find.  Our fist stop was not far down the road when we followed a sign in to the Cazneaux Tree.  The 'what' you ask...so did I.

It is a majestic Red River gum tree that so appealed to photographer Harold Cazneaux he took a picture of it with the walls of Wilpena Pound as background in May 1937. He regarded it as his most Australian picture and called it the Spirit of Endurance. It won many awards in Australian and International exhibitions.  Today this famous tree is known simply as the Cazneaux Tree.  The plaque in front of the tree reads - In May 1941 Cazneaux wrote:

'This giant gum tree stands in solitary grandeur on a lonely plateau in the arid Flinders Ranges, South Australia, where it has grown up from a sapling through the years, and long before the shade from its giant limbs ever gave shelter from heat to white men. The passing of the years has left it scarred and marked by the elements - storm, fire, and water run unconquered, it speaks to us from a Spirit of Endurance. Although aged, its widespread limbs speak of a vitality that will carry on for many more years. One day, when the sun shone hot and strong, I stood before this giant in silent wonder and admiration. The hot wind stirred its leafy boughs, and some of the living elements of this tree passed to me in understanding and friendliness expressing The Spirit of Australia.'

We spent some time here reading the above and photographing this rather unique piece of living history.  Even though the poor old tree is showing it's age a little it still seems to be alive and well and was providing some much appreciated shade for a large number of wild emus who were watching us with as much interest as we were watching them.

Our next stop was just up the road at Wood Duck Dam.  This was a great little dam on the side of the road and we spent some time here with the many birds who were popping in and out for a much needed drink.  There were some ducks on the pond as well as the very noisy Galahs, Corellas, Cockatoos, Ringneck Parrots and Ravens.  Other smaller birds included Yellow eared miners, Honeyeaters and the tiny little Weebills.  It was one of the only places that we saw a reasonable body of water other than the Murray River while we were in Gluepot and The Flinders Ranges.  Almost all of the creeks and riverbeds were totally dry except for the odd puddle in one or two of them.  So Bill really enjoyed himself with the camera clicking madly for an hour or so while he was hidden in the grass.

A little further along the road we stopped at Hucks Lookout for stunning views of the northeastern rim of Wilpena Pound.  We could also see more of the ABC Range, the Heysen Range, Mt Ohlssen Bagge and St Mary's Peak, the highest point of the rim.  

Back out on the road we kept climbing before turning in to our last stop, Stokes Hill Lookout, for a truly amazing view.  From here you can see spectacular panoramas of Wilpena Pound, Mt Patawarta, and the Druid, Chace, Elder, Heysen and Bunker Ranges. 

There is a 3D model of Wilpena Pound and explanatory panels for Adnyamathanha dreamtime legends, traditional plant uses and pictorial symbols.  

We stayed for a while before turning the car around and heading home to bring in the washing and relax for a bit before coming back to watch the sunset from here.

On our return we were only one of many people with the same idea.  The day had been pleasant but the wind had come up and the temperature was dropping rapidly so we spent a very chilly hour or so watching the day come to an end.  It was very nice but with no clouds at all in the sky it was not as spectacular as it could have been.  Not sure how I can even think that given what we were looking at but I'm sure you know what I mean.  

Leaving soon after the sun dropped out of sight we drove home and enjoyed a quiet night in and planned our next days adventures.  

so until then..........