The Oodnadatta Track but first a small detour........

Detour - to where, I hear you ask....Last night in the pub the people we were talking to had just come back from Halligan Bay, Lake Eyre.  The turnoff is just 7 km down the road from William Creek and then 63 km to the campground.  Of course we had to do it.  You can't be this close to one of the biggest salt lakes in Australia and not go and see it - can you?

We picked up our Desert Pass at the pub and then we were on our way.  The first few km, once we had turned off, were quite easy going but before too long we hit the rougher stuff and rocked and rolled our way to Halligan Bay very slowly.

Once again we were driving through Anna Creek Station and were passing cattle yards, seeing cattle and occasionally having to almost stop for them as they crossed in front of us.  Boy, there were some big beasts in that lot.  There are areas that look like they couldn't support any life at all, especially the gibber plains which are made up of little round rocks and stretch as far as the eye can see.  There was quite a lot of bird life though and we stopped a couple of times as Bill grabbed the camera and snapped some of them.  The Cinnamon Quail Thrush was quite happy to be photographed.

Soon after we arrived at Halłigan Bay and the campground, just a spot to park and a toilet, but what a view.  Lake Eyre stretches out in front of you and no matter which way you look all you can see is the glittering white salt lake.  It is almost surreal to stand on the shores and see this incredible place.  

The storyboard tells us that we are now at the lowest point in Australia being approximately 15m below sea level.  On the rare occasions that it fills Lake Eyre becomes the largest Lake in Australia.  In 2012 the name of the lake was officially changed to combine Lake Eyre with Kati Thanda, the indigenous name.

When we arrived we were the only people there but during the afternoon another couple drove in and camped a little further away.  We spent the afternoon taking a walk through the immediate area of the National Park where Bill found this inquisitive Sand Goanna.  He was very patient while Bill took his picture.

I was very surprised by the number of birds we were seeing in such an arid environment.  The Crimson Chats were everywhere and we enjoyed watching them.  Later that evening we stood on the shores of Lake Eyre watching the sunset over the lake - just magical.

The next morning we both got up before sunset to walk to the shore and watch the sun rise.  I think it was actually nicer than last nights sunset and I'm so glad we made the effort.  Never in all my life had I expected to ever see Lake Eyre and here we were.  

After breakfast it was time to rock and roll our way out again which we did stopping once or twice to enjoy the amazing landscape we were passing through.  Gibber Plains, Breakaways and red sand dunes are certainly a little different to Sevens Creek at home.

Back on the Oodnadatta Track part two of the adventure was just beginning.  Irrapatana Siding was our first stop, now just a ruin it was once a stop on The Old Ghan Railway running from Port Augusta to Alice Springs.  I guess they had no more use for this old car either.

We had been following the Explorer Way from Katherine and had come this way partly to follow the route Stuart took from Coober Pedy to Port Augusta.  He had been following a route used for hundreds of years by the aboriginal people which followed a string of mound springs allowing a permanent water supply across the otherwise inhospitable country.  At each stop we had become aware that we were also following 'The Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail' so were really enjoying learning about the early pioneers and their activities in this very remote part of the country.

We were following the railway line, still intact in places, though more often just the mound still visible.  The bridge crossing Warriner Creek still stands in place for today at least.  We stopped next at Strangways where the remains of a bore used for the Ghan is said to be.  This one was a complete ruin and we couldn't see where anything once was.

We continued on and stopped next at Beresford Siding, another ruin but with the Station Masters quarters still in tact, the rails, the water tank and water tap you could get a feel for what it must have been once.  It would have been such a lonely existence for the people that lived in these remote areas.

We continued on along the track to Coward Springs our final stop for the day.  This was another stop on the Old Ghan Railway and well known for its hot spring there.  Today there is a campground at the spring and you can enjoy the warm spa after a long dusty day on the road.  We certainly did!

The Engine drivers cottage has been restored and is now a small museum and the spring surrounding the spa area has created a lovely wetland area that Bill went off to explore after our dip.

A bit of a slow start here as Bill had to repair the bathroom door on the van, seems that the road from Lake Eyre was a little too rough for it.  Once outside the van he discovered that we had another flat tyre so had to change that before we could go anywhere.  Looks like we had picked up a nail at one of the stops yesterday.

Once finally packed up we returned to the track and our first stop was just down the road at one of the mound springs called 'The Bubbler'.  We drove the few km from the main track through a dry white landscape and finally came to a small hill.  We walked to the top and as we did passed a little fast flowing stream coming down the hill.  

At the top of the hill we found this pool of water that bubbled like it was simmering on the stove.  The pattern at the bottom of the pool looked almost like an element.  The plains below were lush and green while everywhere else was dry and barren.  A truly amazing sight.

Returning to the road there was one more stop which was another spring, this one called Blanche's Cup.  Following the path to the top we found another pool which looked deeper and ringed with reeds.  Just an incredible sight and you can understand how these springs were so important to the aboriginals and the early explorers.

Our next stop was Lake Eyre South.  This bottom part of the lake runs right beside The Oodnadatta Track and we stopped to have lunch here.  As before as far as the eye can see is this amazing salt lake.  At this point the lake is 12m below sea level.

We drove on and soon after stopped at what was called Plane Henge on the map.  Just past Alberrie Creek is a Sculpture Park.  There are no signs or explanations but someone has had a ball creating a number of sculptures from old equipment of all sorts.  Another amazing stop and something we certainly did not expect to find in the middle of nowhere!

From here it wasn't far to go to the end of the track at Marree and we found a spot in the caravan park for the night.  We walked over to the station which has two of the old Ghan engines sitting there and had a look.  The tracks changed gauge here at Marree from the narrow gauge that ran from Alice Springs to the standard gauge that ran south to allow the coal to be freighted from Leigh Creek to Port Augusta.

There is a replica of a mosque used by the early Afghan Settlers and in the park opposite a camel sits to commemorate the role they played as the camel trains were used to transport food and goods from Marree and Oodnadatta to the isolated outposts.

And so there we end our journey on the Oodnadatta Track but will continue South tomorrow on the Outback Hwy but for now I sweep the dust out of the van - again!

Until next time.......

Coober Pedy and William Creek.........

Not long after we were in the centre of town still amazed by the unusual Main Street.  There seemed to be mountains of sand set well back on some blocks and on others normal shops along the road.  On closer inspection the mounds of sand had funnels, aerials and satellite dishes coming up from the top indicating a building (dugout) underneath.  

We decided we had better check out one of these underground places and so had a look through The Opal Cave.  First and foremost a shop selling opals but also a walk through museum of sorts explaining how opals are found and mined.  An interesting place to visit and a bit different to just being in the basement of a normal building.

The next morning we walked up to The Old Timers Mine and did a self guided tour here.  This is such an interesting place to visit as it was an actual mine hand dug in 1916.  No one knows why it had been filled in and left when there was still opal to be found there.  It was discovered by accident in 1968 when when an underground home extension broke through revealing precious opal which is on show now.

This home is now on display together with a much earlier dugout.  There are also opal mining machine demonstrations and a noodling pit to keep everyone hoping they might strike it rich.

From here we visited the scenic lookout and The Big Winch.  The view from here is a very strange one as there is not much to see other than hills with air vents and mullock hills.

After lunch we jumped in the car and drove out to have a look at The Breakaways Reserve,  a bit north of Coober Pedy.  Another truly amazing landscape it consists of colourful low hills which have broken away from the Stuart Range, hence their name, The Breakaways.

There are two lookouts here and the views from both of them are absolutely wonderful.  We saw them mid afternoon and the colours were lovely then though I believe sunset is spectacular.  Maybe next time.

On our way back we stopped to look at one outcrop quite close to the road.  With a white hill and a brownish red hill Aboriginal Legend calls it Two dogs but the locals call it Salt and Pepper.  Apparently it has been used in many ads and features in the movies Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome and Ground Zero.

A little further along the road we came to The Dog Fence.  The 2m high wire barrier stretches over 5,300km across three states, to protect the sheep country in the south from the native dog, the dingo.

The flat desert like moonscape along the fence is known as The Moon Plain and it too has been the scene for many movies.

That night we got dressed in long pants and shoes for the first time in a while and enjoyed a lovely dinner at The Undergound Restaurant.  

You know you are undergound by the walls and the vents above and of course no windows.  We had a great night meeting some lovely people from Victoria and a couple of locals.

The next morning it was time to leave and head south so I thought, but Bill decided that I had enjoyed too much time on the bitumen and obviously needed more adventure in my life.  We were going East to William Creek where we would join The Oodnadatta Track and head down to Marree.

And so it back onto the dirt again as we turned left just out of Coober Pedy and spent the next couple of hours on William Creek Rd.  All the reports had said the road was open to all vehicles but to take care with some ruts on the road.  What we found was a wide red road that was very smooth and better than a lot of bitumen roads we have travelled on.  

Of course anyone driving this road is now driving through 'Anna Creek' which at 24,000 sq km is reported to be the worlds largest cattle station.  We also passed near Lake Cadibarrawirracanna, Australia's longest place name.  All the lakes along here are dry at the moment and you can only imagine how amazing it would look with water.  We passed masses of beautiful wild flowers along the roadside and it is a mystery as to how they thrive when water is so scarce.  The very pretty Poached Egg flower seemed to be the most prominent.

Soon after we arrived at William Creek which is SA's smallest village with a population of 12.  We found a spot at the campground here and enjoyed dinner in the unique bush pub which is it's main attraction.  Great food, great fun, some great wines and met some lovely fellow travellers here.  I will have to cook again soon!

And so tomorrow we set off on The Oodnadatta Track for real.

until then.........

Trephina Gorge and the road south.......

We left Alice Springs on Friday morning and made our way to the Ross Highway were we turned left and headed out to the East MacDonnell Ranges.  Never having been into the 'East Macs' we thought now was the time to have a look.  We were heading to Trephina Gorge to spend a couple of nights at the camp ground there.

The drive out was absolutely spectacular with the scenery, while different from the 'West Macs', just as captivating.  On our arrival at the camp ground we were blown away by the truly amazing views.  Our camp ground was called Panorama and what a panorama we were faced with.  Huge towering red quartzite cliffs and the Ross River just beside us.

We set up and paid our fees at the self registration post, again $3.30 pp per night, and then after lunch set off to have a look at the Gorge itself.  We found there were three or four walk trails here so decided that the easiest one would be the go for this afternoon.  Without knowing what we would be walking on I had taken my 'pole' just in case and boy was I pleased.

As we crossed the riverbed we decided to go up instead of along and in fact had unknowingly started the Panorama walk.  The longest and highest of them all.  We climbed steadily and fairly easily for quite some time and yes my pole was making all the difference.  Bill, while still looking out for me, was no longer having to help me up steps and rocks.  I think he was pleased.

The view as we climbed was certainly spectacular, looking down into the deep red gorge or up and over to the great red cliffs.  We continued to climb going higher and higher when the next turn brought us looking at everything from a different angle and this was as far as I could go.  Pole or no pole, I froze and couldn't move one more step upward.  

I sat here on a rock while Bill went up to the top and then retraced his steps to see me down safely.  He did have to help with the first two steps but after that my pole and I managed the whole trek down quite well.  I think it was money well spent.  We did find out the next day that if we had walked along the riverbed the climb from the other side was much more gentle and easier.  Maybe next time.

The next morning we set off again this time along the riverbed and through the gorge itself.  There really are not enough words to describe walking along the wide dry riverbed, majestic old River Red Gums growing right up the centre of the river, and the towering red walls - just truly amazing.

At the end of the gorge you can follow the signs up and return by the Rim walk.  With my trusty pole in hand I followed Bill up and apart from one little spot as we came down, to go up, I managed very well and enjoyed the walk.  We returned to camp quite pleased with our mornings effort even though Bill had not seen any birds as we walked.

Back at the van we had lunch and certainly made up for the lack of birds this morning as we were visited all afternoon by many different Honeyeaters, (this Grey Headed Honeyeater was very friendly), Finches, Peaceful Doves and a couple of Port Lincoln Parrots.  We enjoyed watching their antics for the rest of the day.

The next morning it time to go and head back to the Stuart Highway and continue our way south.  We have thoroughly enjoyed our adventures in and around Alice Springs and will certainly come back this way again.  

The Stuart highway we have been travelling since Katherine is a drive called 'The Explorer's Way'.  Most of the stops along the way have had some connection first, to the route followed by John McDougall Stuart, and secondly to the Overland Telegraph Wire.  It has been very interesting so far and we will continue to stop along the way and see what else we can learn about these early adventurers.

We drove on during the day stopping for the night at Finke River rest area.  This roadside stop as the name suggests is right beside the Finke River.  When this rivers flows it must be an amazing sight but for now, as are all the others we have seen, it is dry.  We walked down and along the riverbed and I was just amazed at how fine and soft the sand was.  

The next day we continued on down the highway stopping for coffee and a phone signal at Erldunda Roadhouse.  Next stop was Kulgera Roadhouse just to take a look at the last pub in the NT.  Or of course it could be the first one if you're coming the other way!  

Then just 20 km on we had crossed the border into South Australia.  So it was here we said farewell to The Northern Territory for this trip.  What an adventure it has been from when we crossed the border on The Savannah Way to the border here.  Something new and amazing around every corner.  Seeing old friends and meeting new ones.  We will be back as there are many more places to see in this most incredible and diverse place they call The Territory.  Of course any border crossing is another photo opportunity and as we stopped we saw this cute little blue car and caravan.  They had been in Alice for The Red Centre Nats and were driving back to SA.  Glad it was them and not me!

We drove on from here stopping for lunch at a rest area and then made our way to Marla Roadhouse where we stayed in the caravan park there.  With a pub beside the park we decided to have a night off cooking and eat there instead.  Wow, the mixed grill would have fed us both but we gave it our best shot and it was very tasty.

The next morning I had a bit of trouble getting Bill out of his warm bed.  The mornings are very chilly now and he just wants to turn the car around and go back to the heat.  Once he was up we were on our way to our next adventure.  We were off to Coober Pedy somewhere neither of us have been before.

Having never been here I had no idea of what to expect and the landscape as we drove along the Highway was very flat and we could see what was coming for miles.  All of a sudden it changed to what looked like something out of a Science Fiction movie with km upon km of mounds.  After more than 20 km of this we finally reached a sign saying Coober Pedy was 2 km ahead and there we were in a very strange and desolate landscape which didn't look like anyone could live there.  

We located The Oasis Caravan Park and booked in for a couple of days as we were going to check this very unusual place out and of course catch up with the washing once more.  So we'll set up now and get about and about shortly.

until then............

Ormiston Gorge and Alice Springs......

On arriving at the Ormiston Gorge campground we found a site and set ourselves up for the next two days.  Another fab bush camp with toilets and shower for $10 pp a night.  I do wish some of the other states would take a leaf out of the NT Tourism book and offer campgrounds like this.  Every one was almost full and people were really enjoying the whole bush camping experience.

We had been here for a very short visit in 2006 but had only walked to the waterhole, took the picture and left.  This time we were going to enjoy a proper look.  There were people swimming here but with the drop in temperature and the very cold water we weren't tempted to get the bathers out again.

We walked along the huge wide dry riverbed to the waterhole and then around the corner into the gorge.  Bill scrambled over a few rocks but with both of us wearing thongs we decided to wait until tomorrow and do it properly.  It certainly is an amazing feature.  We returned home and took it easy under the awning with a book and the birds.

The next morning Bill had been going to get up early and do the Ormiston Pound walk.  The 7-8 km walk was a bit much for me so I was staying home.  When the alarm went off all we could hear was the wind so it was a change of plan and back to sleep for Bill.  He did get up a bit later and head into the Gorge for a couple of hours while I did some bits inside.  The White Necked Heron seemed to love the high cliffs of the gorge.

Later that morning we both ventured out to do the Ghost Gum walk up to the Lookout.  This walk is almost all stairs on the way up the steep cliff to the lookout but you are rewarded with the most spectacular view of the dry riverbeds, the gorge and the waterhole below.  

We decided to take the more gentle route down around the cliffs into the gorge to the bottom and then back along the riverbed.  A bit of a scramble over large rocks once on the ground but still a spectacular walk.  Looking across the riverbed we found some of the beautiful Black Footed Wallabies which live on the rock ledges.

And who did we meet on the cliffs - yes Avril and Ian had come into camp for the night as well.  It was good to see them again and that evening we had happy hour drinks together and enjoyed their company very much.

Back at our van Bill spent the afternoon playing with the birds, the stunning Spinifex Pigeons were not shy but the Western Bowerbirds were proving to be a bit of a challenge.  Maybe tomorrow.

The next morning we said goodbye again to friends, who knows where we will bump into each other again as we are both off to Alice for a few days.  As we were packing up, just like they had been pre ordered, the Western Bowerbirds showed up and kept Bill busy for a while.  

Soon it was time to put the camera away and head back to Alice Springs where we booked into the Wintersun Caravan Park for three nights.  Time to wash again and have a look around Alice Springs.

We took care of the chores that afternoon and later drove into town to have a look.  We were very disappointed with the main tourist precinct - Todd Mall.  Last time we were here this area was very busy with tourists and shops but this trip it seemed to be a ghost strip with many empty shops and empty streets.  All the action seems to have moved a little further along to the two shopping centres (air conditioned malls) which could be anywhere at all.  Such a shame but I guess it's called progress.

We did our weekly shopping here and returned home for the evening.  As we had been coming South we had noticed the days and nights were cooling down but here in Alice we got quite a shock with the overnight temperatures down to 4 degs.  So on went the quilt and the winter pjs again and we stayed toasty warm.

The next morning we went to the Olive Pink Botanic Gardens where we spent a few hours walking around and being entranced by two active bowers belonging to the Western Bowerbirds.  Watching the birds performing at the bowers was just fascinating and we were there longer than we expected to be.

Later that afternoon we drove over to The National Road Transport Hall of Fame.  Our main objective here was to see BB who had been inducted in 2010.  But first we enjoyed a walk around the many old cars, trucks and room after room of stories of early road transport, tourism, haulage and private.  Such an interesting place to visit and all run by volunteers too.  And yes we found our man!

Right next door is the Ghan Preservation Society and here they have built a replica of MacDonnell Siding complete with the Old Ghan Train.  All in all a great place to visit.

The next day we drove just out of town to visit The Old Telegraph Station Reserve.  As we drove into the car park we spied a now familiar camper van and sure enough Avril and Ian were there too.  We chatted for a while then left them to their lunch with the beautiful butterfly while we went off to explore.  

It was here that Alice Springs was named.  The town was previously known as Stuart.  Following in the footsteps of Stuart the early explorers travelled through this route to find a path for the Overland Telegraph Line which was to run from Adelaide to Darwin.  They located a repeater station beside a water hole which they named 'Alice Springs' however it was not a permanent water supply as the river dries up each year.  Still the name stayed and the town grew up and somehow they survive.

The Old Telegraph Station is a self guided tour and we spent an hour or more going through and learning more about the importance of the Overland Telegraph wire.  Now a Historical Reserve the heritage buildings have been restored and the many interpretive displays give you an insight into life as an early settler in this remote centre of Australia.

A little further around we climbed to the lookout on Trig Hill and while it was not very high once again it was a challenge for me.  Poor Bill is getting a bit sick of having to turn around and help me up and down the rocks whenever I decide to brave the hills in the first place.  He did suggest after our walk today that a stick might help.  After my first reaction of 'how rude' I got to thinking that perhaps a Trekking Pole might be the answer and so later that afternoon we went into town and found just what we were looking for at Lone Dingo.  Hopefully this will do the job!

And so once again it was time to pack up the next morning and continue making our way south as we crawl ever closer to home again.  But with over 2000 km still to go there will be a lot more to see and explore.

until next time......