The Oodnadatta Track but first a small detour........

Detour - to where, I hear you ask....Last night in the pub the people we were talking to had just come back from Halligan Bay, Lake Eyre.  The turnoff is just 7 km down the road from William Creek and then 63 km to the campground.  Of course we had to do it.  You can't be this close to one of the biggest salt lakes in Australia and not go and see it - can you?

We picked up our Desert Pass at the pub and then we were on our way.  The first few km, once we had turned off, were quite easy going but before too long we hit the rougher stuff and rocked and rolled our way to Halligan Bay very slowly.

Once again we were driving through Anna Creek Station and were passing cattle yards, seeing cattle and occasionally having to almost stop for them as they crossed in front of us.  Boy, there were some big beasts in that lot.  There are areas that look like they couldn't support any life at all, especially the gibber plains which are made up of little round rocks and stretch as far as the eye can see.  There was quite a lot of bird life though and we stopped a couple of times as Bill grabbed the camera and snapped some of them.  The Cinnamon Quail Thrush was quite happy to be photographed.

Soon after we arrived at Halłigan Bay and the campground, just a spot to park and a toilet, but what a view.  Lake Eyre stretches out in front of you and no matter which way you look all you can see is the glittering white salt lake.  It is almost surreal to stand on the shores and see this incredible place.  

The storyboard tells us that we are now at the lowest point in Australia being approximately 15m below sea level.  On the rare occasions that it fills Lake Eyre becomes the largest Lake in Australia.  In 2012 the name of the lake was officially changed to combine Lake Eyre with Kati Thanda, the indigenous name.

When we arrived we were the only people there but during the afternoon another couple drove in and camped a little further away.  We spent the afternoon taking a walk through the immediate area of the National Park where Bill found this inquisitive Sand Goanna.  He was very patient while Bill took his picture.

I was very surprised by the number of birds we were seeing in such an arid environment.  The Crimson Chats were everywhere and we enjoyed watching them.  Later that evening we stood on the shores of Lake Eyre watching the sunset over the lake - just magical.

The next morning we both got up before sunset to walk to the shore and watch the sun rise.  I think it was actually nicer than last nights sunset and I'm so glad we made the effort.  Never in all my life had I expected to ever see Lake Eyre and here we were.  

After breakfast it was time to rock and roll our way out again which we did stopping once or twice to enjoy the amazing landscape we were passing through.  Gibber Plains, Breakaways and red sand dunes are certainly a little different to Sevens Creek at home.

Back on the Oodnadatta Track part two of the adventure was just beginning.  Irrapatana Siding was our first stop, now just a ruin it was once a stop on The Old Ghan Railway running from Port Augusta to Alice Springs.  I guess they had no more use for this old car either.

We had been following the Explorer Way from Katherine and had come this way partly to follow the route Stuart took from Coober Pedy to Port Augusta.  He had been following a route used for hundreds of years by the aboriginal people which followed a string of mound springs allowing a permanent water supply across the otherwise inhospitable country.  At each stop we had become aware that we were also following 'The Old Ghan Railway Heritage Trail' so were really enjoying learning about the early pioneers and their activities in this very remote part of the country.

We were following the railway line, still intact in places, though more often just the mound still visible.  The bridge crossing Warriner Creek still stands in place for today at least.  We stopped next at Strangways where the remains of a bore used for the Ghan is said to be.  This one was a complete ruin and we couldn't see where anything once was.

We continued on and stopped next at Beresford Siding, another ruin but with the Station Masters quarters still in tact, the rails, the water tank and water tap you could get a feel for what it must have been once.  It would have been such a lonely existence for the people that lived in these remote areas.

We continued on along the track to Coward Springs our final stop for the day.  This was another stop on the Old Ghan Railway and well known for its hot spring there.  Today there is a campground at the spring and you can enjoy the warm spa after a long dusty day on the road.  We certainly did!

The Engine drivers cottage has been restored and is now a small museum and the spring surrounding the spa area has created a lovely wetland area that Bill went off to explore after our dip.

A bit of a slow start here as Bill had to repair the bathroom door on the van, seems that the road from Lake Eyre was a little too rough for it.  Once outside the van he discovered that we had another flat tyre so had to change that before we could go anywhere.  Looks like we had picked up a nail at one of the stops yesterday.

Once finally packed up we returned to the track and our first stop was just down the road at one of the mound springs called 'The Bubbler'.  We drove the few km from the main track through a dry white landscape and finally came to a small hill.  We walked to the top and as we did passed a little fast flowing stream coming down the hill.  

At the top of the hill we found this pool of water that bubbled like it was simmering on the stove.  The pattern at the bottom of the pool looked almost like an element.  The plains below were lush and green while everywhere else was dry and barren.  A truly amazing sight.

Returning to the road there was one more stop which was another spring, this one called Blanche's Cup.  Following the path to the top we found another pool which looked deeper and ringed with reeds.  Just an incredible sight and you can understand how these springs were so important to the aboriginals and the early explorers.

Our next stop was Lake Eyre South.  This bottom part of the lake runs right beside The Oodnadatta Track and we stopped to have lunch here.  As before as far as the eye can see is this amazing salt lake.  At this point the lake is 12m below sea level.

We drove on and soon after stopped at what was called Plane Henge on the map.  Just past Alberrie Creek is a Sculpture Park.  There are no signs or explanations but someone has had a ball creating a number of sculptures from old equipment of all sorts.  Another amazing stop and something we certainly did not expect to find in the middle of nowhere!

From here it wasn't far to go to the end of the track at Marree and we found a spot in the caravan park for the night.  We walked over to the station which has two of the old Ghan engines sitting there and had a look.  The tracks changed gauge here at Marree from the narrow gauge that ran from Alice Springs to the standard gauge that ran south to allow the coal to be freighted from Leigh Creek to Port Augusta.

There is a replica of a mosque used by the early Afghan Settlers and in the park opposite a camel sits to commemorate the role they played as the camel trains were used to transport food and goods from Marree and Oodnadatta to the isolated outposts.

And so there we end our journey on the Oodnadatta Track but will continue South tomorrow on the Outback Hwy but for now I sweep the dust out of the van - again!

Until next time.......