And now we go West.......

Waking up at Archer Creek was not quite the same as 'Birds on Barron' with cars and trucks whizzing by.  As we were not here to stay we ate breakfast and headed off on the Savannah Way passing through the tiny hamlets of Innot Springs, Mount Garnet and Mount Surprise before stopping for the day at the Einasleigh River.

We found a lovely little spot amongst the trees right beside the HL Louden Bridge.  The river here was dry with just the odd puddle along the watercourse and as we walked down to have a look you could see the foundations of the much lower old bridge.  I would imagine it spent a lot of its life under water in the wet season.  That night a few backpackers came in but stayed further up the hill as you needed 4WD to get to where we were.  Tea was cooked on the campfire and we enjoyed the balmy evening until it went out.

The next morning we drove into Georgetown and really enjoyed this part of the Savannah Way.  You might remember that last year we deviated and left the main rd to have a look at the little towns of Einasleigh and Forsayth so this little section was all new to us.  The road seemed fairly new too so it was an easy section to drive.  We picked up some bread and fruit here and then we were off to find our camp for the next day or so.

Cumberland Chimney was our destination and on arrival we saw that it looked quite different from last year.  The council have fenced off the waterhole with bollards and have built a lovely viewing platform so everyone can now enjoy the birds and the view not just the few who camped along its shores.  I think it is a big improvement and there is still plenty of room for people to camp behind the waterhole.

We were surprised to only find one other van here but it wasn't long before others came in, though it was much quieter than last year.  Lots of birds as well to keep Bill busy and he really enjoyed playing here.  The beautiful Red Back Fairy Wrens were not seen last year and they were quite happy to pose for him today.  We met some nice folk here and enjoyed a chat each evening as the sun set.  We stayed for two days before hitting the road again and continuing West for the moment.

We stopped at Croydon for a quick pit stop before making our way to Black Bull Siding where we camped that night.  This is the morning tea stop for the Gulflander train as it travels from Croydon to Normanton and it was here that we saw it last year with the Cairns to Karumba bike riders.  No train today but a lovely spot to camp for the afternoon and night.  Apparently it started life as Pattersons Siding but was known as Black Bull for the bull that was said to be seen here.

The next morning we drove into Normanton, did some shopping and found a quiet spot at the town wharf to have our coffee.   The wharf built in the 1800's still stands today and is a favourite fishing haunt for locals and visitors.  The floating boat ramp is here too and the height of the pylons here shows just how high the water reaches during the wet season.  After seeing dry riverbeds for the last few weeks it was good to see the Norman River flowing strongly.

We left soon after and made our way to Bang Bang rest area to camp.  We had turned South now and were heading to Burke and Wills Roadhouse so this large area was an ideal place to stay.  The next morning we continued on and arrived at the roadhouse in time for morning smoko.  I had the morning off and we enjoyed coffee and scones on the veranda.  So many cars, caravans and campers here as they filled up before heading off the next leg of their adventures and at $1.47 per litre I think they were making a killing!  The coffee was good though.

We left here driving to Gregory where we camped overnight in their low impact camp ground across from the Gregory Hotel.  There is a new shop here and we walked down to check it out.  Billyhangers looks like it is giving the pub shop a bit of competition which in a tiny place like this can only be a good thing for travellers.  We bought a couple of books for a $2 donation to the RFDS and a jar of relish.  Big spenders eh!

We left the next morning and set off across the Wills Development Road, our first real red dust road with the van for this trip.  And yes it was very rough and dusty.  We drove all day stopping along the way to make lunch and arrived tired and dirty at our destination about 4 pm.  The car and van were red!

Camooweal Billabong was our home for the next three days and what a lovely place it was.  Camooweal, known as the gateway to Queensland and the NothernTerritory, was once a thriving droving centre and is the westernmost town in Qld.  

We crossed the dry Georgina River and made our way to the two beautiful waterholes, Lake Francis and Lake Canellan.  We found a lovely spot to camp beside the water in what wiki camps called 'area two' and were soon settled in and relaxing under the awning. 

The birds were abundant and we just loved watching the antics of the Pelicans and Little Cormorants as they fished together up and down the waterhole.   The beautiful Brolgas across the water danced and wandered up and down the shoreline.  Watching them fly off and vocalising to each other was just magic.  Egrets and Darters fished and the Kites kept an eye on us all from above.  

The next day we got new neighbors as a big fifth wheeler came in closely followed by an ice cream van.  Yes, they were together and the van worked the crowds each afternoon and yes, they were yummy!  They were here for the Drovers Festival at the end of the month.

Day three was a lot windier and I decided to join most of the other campers and do some washing.  The generator ran the machine and not long after the clothes were flapping in the breeze.  Later that evening the little breeze turned into a howling wind and sent us all out to wind in the awnings. Something less to pack up in the morning I guess.

We said farewell to this beautiful place on Saturday morning and while Bill filled the tanks with water in town I checked out 'The Drover'.  We made our way on a bitumen road to Mount Isa where we had to top up at the shops.  We had only bought minimal supplies at the general store in Camooweal due to their super inflated prices.  Soon after we were on our way again, still driving south as we made our way towards Boulia.  

We stopped just 35 km out of Mount Isa at Galah Creek and camped on the bright red sand beside the dry Creekbed.  I'm not sure whether the cows or me got the biggest shock when I opened the door in the morning.  They ran away before I could grab the camera!  

A short drive today as we stopped just 80 km or so down the road at a waterhole just before Dajarra.  This was a beautiful place and we camped beside the water and enjoyed the afternoon with the birds.  Lots of Cockatiels coming into drink, Grebes building nests and little Dotterels with babies running along the shore.  

And then it rained!  Living off the grid as we have been and travelling through remote areas with little or no signal we had no idea of the weather forecasts other than the snippet as we came through Mount Isa mentioning rain.  The next morning we got a very bad radio signal but heard enough to hear that many roads in the area we were heading had been closed or were 4WD only.  As the road we where on was just a narrow strip of bitumen with soft shoulders we decided not to wait and let them get any worse.  We would drive into Boulia and wait it out there.  Obviously they have had recent rainfall here as for most of the drive in we had green fields stretching out beside us.

The further south we went the sun shone and it was fine.  We had a good but slow drive in and once there found a site beside Bengeacca Creek after first checking at the visitors centre.  We had a lovely afternoon of sunshine and birds before heading inside after dark for dinner.  And then it rained!  All night!

Waking to more rain it was no surprise to open the blinds and see we were surrounded by water on the ground.  Like Cunnamulla earlier in the trip the water on the ground looked like 'pop up pools' and we knew we weren't going anywhere today.  The good news is that the radio works and we heard this morning that Boulia had received 21 mm overnight and more in the areas south of us.  So today we sit and watch the rain, read, do puzzles and consult the maps to work out an alternative route as we wait and see if we need to change our plans again.  Bill did a bit of engineering - digging a trench - to keep us dry underfoot but there was no way to alter the fact that it was wet!

We did just this later in the afternoon when we noticed that our little creek was rising rather quickly.  There were a few other vans here with us and two had gone during the day. About 4 pm Bill decided it was time to leave and so did the chap beside us so we took a deep breath and drove out slipping and sliding along the track.  We both made it but the chap on the other side was not so lucky and was fully stuck.  The grader came and pulled him out the next morning.  With the causeway under water Trevor and Bill decided not to risk crossing that evening so we drove to higher ground and we listened to the rain all night but were safely out of harms way.  

The next morning we crossed the creek and said farewell to Boulia.  We had been going to head towards Birdsville but it seemed all roads were closed and our only option was the sealed Kennedy Development Road to Winton and so we drove.  This route is said to be known as the most spectacular drive in Western Queensland and it certainly was a lovely journey through the foothills of the incredible Lilleyvale Hills.  Unfortunately we couldn't stop and walk up to the lookout as the ground off the road was just too soft after the rain.  

A little later we stopped for the day at 'The Hilton Hotel'.  The tiny hamlet of Middleton is 190 km east of Boulia and has just the one building. And a population of 3.  The Middleton Hotel was the first one built and the last one standing of eight hotels built on the between Winton and Boulia.  Built in 1876 during the Cobb and Co era it was changing station no. 4. for the run.  The hotel is run by a wonderful old couple, Lester and Val, who are full of stories and old style hospitality.  We had dinner at the bar and enjoyed a home cooked corned beef, veggies and white sauce.  Across the road you can camp for free at 'The Hilton'.  No Aircon, No Pool, No Charge - Gotta love bush humour!

Moving on in the morning we stopped along the way to see 'Ringers Leap', another pretty spectacular rock formation.  It was here that the Australian movie Mystery Road was filmed.  Our next stop was to watch two beautiful brolgas dancing by the roadside.  We passed many more along the way as well as some lovely little Pratincoles which Bill stopped and snapped for a while.  

For most of the drive we were captivated with the lush green landscape as we went along.  I guess the drought has broken in this little corner of Queensland. It certainly looks like it here.

We arrived in Winton around lunch time and made our way back to Long Waterhole where we stayed last time as we passed through to see if it was dry enough to camp.  It was and so we stayed for the night enjoying the waterhole almost as much as this beautiful little Redback Kingfisher.  Now all we have to do is to decide where to go next.  Watch this space - it's a bit of a magical mystery tour at the moment as the roads dry out.

until next time.......