Birdsville or bust........

Leaving the Caravan Park the next morning we stopped in town for one more decent coffee before we left Mount Isa.  Lots of quirky things on the wall at the cafe and this doorway made me smile.  We took the Diamantina Development Rd heading towards Boulia and drove for a few hours stopping at a huge roadside stop for the night.

Driving on the next morning we made our way into  Boulia where we stopped to buy fuel before heading out to our usual camp spot beside the creek.  While in the service station I saw a rather tall man walk in and a minute later I recognised him as Kevin, our friend from Perth.   He too is travelling and was on his way to Birdsville.

We were on our way there as well so we decided to travel together.  Kevin joined us at the creek and we had a great afternoon and evening catching up on each others news.  It has been almost 10 years since we have seen him so you can imagine just how much there was to catch up on.

The next morning we stopped in Boulia for a coffee, a look at the gift shop/art gallery and to pick up a couple of last minute items.  We left soon after and drove on towards Bedourie.  Our first stop was to take a photo of yet another Tropic of Capricorn marker. 

Our next stop an hour later was for lunch at the Vaughan Johnson Rest Area and Lookout.  The Lookout was named after former Member for Gregory, Vaughan Johnson in recognition for his advocacy and efforts made towards the advancement of the sealed road network in Western Queensland.  This rest area is on top of the only hill in the area.  A fairly steep drive up is worth the effort as the view from the top is just wonderful.  This is part of just one of the stations we have passed in the last few days.  It certainly is a huge flat landscape out here.

Back in the car we continued on to Bedourie where we camped overnight at the Simpson Desert Oasis Roadhouse.  For $10 per car you got space to camp and great showers.  We decided to have dinner at the roadhouse/pub that night and we were all served the biggest plates of food I have seen in a long while.  I reckon the three of us could have shared one plate.  Bill and Kevin got through most of theirs but I didn’t quite make it.  Not sure why but it seems Elvis hasn’t quite left the building out here in the desert.

With a population of just 140 Bedourie is an oasis in the desert and is located at the base of a sand dune surrounded by Eyre Creek.  We had a look around the next morning before we left and found this great sculpture in the park opposite the school.  Called Dust Storm it is part of a series of Sculptures in the Dreamtime.  It is said to represent the whirly winds that the ancient people believed is how the spirits travelled.  

Bedourie is also the place where the Simpson Desert meets the Channel Country and combined with the teeming flora and fauna, make up one of the world’s most fragile and unique desert ecosystems.  As we drove through the first 90 km or so the landscape was lush and green from the rains earlier this year.  As we passed we saw many birds, a large mob of Emus and a dingo beside a waterhole.

Our first stop was to make coffee beside Cuttaburra Crossing.  This is a permanent waterhole and a renowned wetland on the Eyre Creek. It is located between Lake Koolivoo and Lake Machattie.  

From here we drove on and stopped to have a look at the old Carcory Bore and Ruins.  The bore has been capped now though it is so interesting to see the water boiling in the middle of the spring.  

The Carcory Homestead was built in 1877 of local limestone by Hector and Norman Wilson. Listed by the National Trust, this attraction is an example of the rich history of the Diamantina Shire. It was abandoned by Sir Sydney Kidman after battling extreme drought in the early 1900s.  

From here we finally ran out of bitumen and we were pleasantly surprised to find the road was newly graded and very smooth and easy to drive.  Not much later we arrived in Birdsville, our final destination for a few days.  With a few days to go until the big event, The Birdsville Races, we found a campsite with Ben, our brother in law, and watched the crowds grow.  Kevin has found a place to camp nearby in readiness for his visitors to arrive as well.

We woke the next morning and after breakfast went into town to see what was happening.  Even though the races are not on until Friday and Saturday the people have been arriving for the last couple of weeks.  There are campers all around the river and the town.  

There are a couple of sites that have many Safari tents set up to cater for people arriving on tours.  There are a couple of blocks of showers where for a $5 charge you can have a hot shower and the money is donated to the RFDS.  Blocks of toilets have been placed along the roads near some of the camping areas along with large skip bins.  

With around 7000 extra people expected to descend on Birdsville for the races we are certainly impressed with the organisation in place.  In town we visited the information centre first and enjoyed seeing photos and memorabilia showing the history of Birdsville.   This tiny town, with a population of just 115,  is one of the most remote in Queensland.  

Located on land traditionally owned by the Wongkanguru people it is on the eastern edge of The Simpson Desert and is surrounded by vast gibber plains and braided Channel Country.  After a coffee we had a wander through the market type area that has popped up for the week.  A few stalls selling all things country and Birdsville merchandise. Plenty of food stalls here though I’m not sure there were any ‘healthy’ items on the menu.  

We returned home to chill out during the afternoon.  As we relaxed under the awning we watched many other campers arrive and set up.  There are many different types of set ups ranging from Fifth wheelers, Caravans, Campers, Motor homes, tents and swags to people sleeping in their cars.

Later in the afternoon we returned to town to have a drink at the Birdsville Hotel.  Well, when in Rome......  We caught up with Kevin and met his friends who had arrived today.  Inside with Ben we met another couple from Yerong Creek and a few other people.  Everyone is so friendly and all are enjoying their big adventure so far.

The next day started with an early morning run into town to grab a coffee and then we had a quiet day at home as we waited for the others to arrive.

At lunch time we returned to town to attend the Birdsville School Sausage Sizzle and Bake Sale.  With the queue at the gate we didn’t think we would get anything but Bill got lucky and we got some Milo Biscuits and enjoyed a sausage in bread for lunch.  

Soon after our other campers drove in.  Rhett, Justine and their kids, Harry, Charlie and Eliza had driven over from Port Hedland with a couple of mates, Beau and Zach.  They had met up at Uluru with another friend Dutchy, his wife Angie and their two kids Annabelle and Kaelan.  Once they arrived it was all go as they set up their campers, tents and swags and soon after everyone took time out to enjoy a drink and a bit of rest after their long drive.

Waking on Friday morning it was a shock to the system as the forecast wind was much worse than expected.  After the last few days of temperatures in the high 30’s it had dropped again and the wind was bitter.  We went into town for coffee but this morning it seemed everyone had the same idea.  One of the coffee stalls had blown up their machine so with just one working the queue was long.  We waited and enjoyed it when we finally got there.

Back at home it was time to get ready for the races.  We caught the shuttle bus to the race track and thoroughly enjoyed an afternoon of people watching.  Unfortunately the wind made trackside a little unpleasant as the dust blew everywhere.  

We watched a few races and the judging of the costume competition then checked out a few of the horses before giving up and heading back home out of the relentless wind.  It was a fun day and we’ll return tomorrow for ‘The Birdsville Cup’.  Hopefully the wind will have stopped by then.  The rest of the afternoon was spent with the kids and an early night was next for me.  

We repeated our morning routine of yesterday and joined another long line to get our daily fix of caffeine.  The wind had stopped and a seat in the sun was lovely as we waited.

After we had our coffee we went for a walk and had a look at the iconic Birdsville Bakery.  The building is still there but the Bakery has permanently closed a few months ago.  It is such a shame to see it empty.  We were amazed to see so many people leaving this morning.  Not sure if they were over the wind or having been to the races yesterday feel they had ‘done it now’.  We’ll never know but with a two day race program we’ll stay the distance and go to see ‘The Birdsville Cup’ run this afternoon.  After lunch we did just that and returned to the track.  We only had a bet on the Cup and I got a second place so at least got my money back.  Bill was not so lucky.

Today the crowd seemed bigger than yesterday and while there was still a real mix of outfits we saw a lot more ladies dressed up.  Fashions on the Field was very elegant as always.  We caught up with Kevin and watched a few races with him before calling it a day and heading back to camp to spend the rest of the day with all the kids.

The next morning saw all our other campers pack up and head off in many different directions.  We helped keep the kids entertained while the adults packed up and got ready to leave.

After we had said farewell we returned to town for a coffee and then came back to camp where we spent a very quiet afternoon watching a steady stream of vans, campers and cars leaving town.  We’ll be on our own soon.

A little later Kevin came down from his camp just along the road and joined Bill around the campfire where they solved the problems of the world.  He stayed for dinner before we all said another round of farewells as he is leaving tomorrow to begin his journey into Melbourne.

On Monday morning we decided to go and see if the coffee van was still in town.  It was so we indulged again.  This morning though all the other vans had either gone or were packed up and closed.

After we had our coffee we drove the 38 km out to see Big Red.  The road out was quite rocky for the first few km but easy enough and part of the way was sealed which was a surprise.

Our first stop was at the top of Little Red which I thought was quite adventurous enough but Bill had other ideas.  Back on the flat we drove the extra couple of km round to Big Red and up he went.  Not right to the top I’m happy to say but high enough for me.  Footprints in the sand and tyre tracks are all you see here until the wind covers them again.  

The view from here was pretty spectacular looking across the flat plain to another dune on the other side.  This area is part of the Simpson Desert.  

From here Bill climbed to the top of the Big dune they all try and drive up.  Lots of tracks here but I was happy to see him on two feet rather than four wheels.  

We drove down and home again stopping to take a photo of the Artesian Bore Head and cooling ponds at the edge of town. Birdsville water supply comes from a bore sunk in 1961 to a depth of 1292 metres.  It comes to the surface under pressure (280lbs per square inch) with a surface temperature of 98 deg celsius. From the cooling ponds it is pumped 20 metres up into a 45,000 litre tank before distribution to the town for drinking and household use.  Back at home we spent the afternoon getting ourselves ready to leave Birdsville in the morning.  

When we left home we had not even considered coming to Birdsville but along the way decided it would be good to catch up with Rhett and his family if we were nearby.  I’m so glad we did.  We have had the best time here and getting to camp with the kids was great fun too.

And so now we leave in the morning and begin our journey back towards home.  Bill is still not happy with the temperature at home but there are still a few weeks before we arrive.  Perhaps it will have improved by then.  But in the meantime there are a few more roads to travel.

until next time.......