Australia’s Longest Shortcut- are we mad......

Leaving Winton on the 7th July we began our journey on the Outback Way also known as Australia’s Longest Shortcut.  From Winton in Qld to Laverton in WA this journey is 2700 km of which approximately 1300 km is sealed and 1400 km is unsealed.  All I had read indicated the roads were not too bad.  Let’s find out!

The first part of this journey is a road we have travelled before and we made our way along the single lane bitumen road to Middleton.  We did discover that meeting fully loaded B-triple cattle trucks on this road is not much fun but we managed so all is well.  We passed 7 in total that day!

We spent the night at the camp ground opposite the old hotel with many other travellers.  It was a very busy time in the bar as everyone gathered that evening for a drink or a meal.  Old Lester was away this time but his wife and daughter looked after everyone very well.

We continued on to Boulia the next morning stopping at Cawnpore Lookout along the way.  Beautiful views here over the Lilyvale Hills.  The ‘blurb’ tells us it is an amazing mix of uplifted, rocky, multi coloured terrain with butes, hills and ranges.

Along the way to Boulia we found stories of the mysterious Min Min lights.  Once there we had a quick look in the visitor centre and then found a home beside the creek where we stayed last time.  No trouble with rain and mud this time it was just relentless wind and red sand blowing everywhere today.

Leaving Boulia we drove to the Plenty Highway and began the slow journey towards Alice Springs. The first 100 km was sealed and then there was a mix of good unsealed roads as we travelled on.  We stopped the first night at the Georgina River bush camp.  Once again the river was dry with just the odd puddle to be seen at this time of year.  The wind had been blowing relentlessly since leaving Middleton and today was no different.  We set up camp in a slightly sheltered area and managed not to be blown away overnight.

Since leaving Mareeba the weather has been cooling down each day.  While we are enjoying clear skies and sunshine during the days the nights are quite cool and getting colder as we track west across the state.  Waking the next morning, in what would be our last camp in Qld this year, it was a very chilly 7 deg and very hard to get out of bed.  We continued on crossing the border into NT a few hours later.  At this point the road deteriorated quite a bit and I guess this is what we have to look forward to for the next few days.

We stopped in at Tobermorey Station a few km on from the border to get some bread for lunch.  This is a working cattle station and offers a small campground, some simple supplies, fuel and a loo.  We didn’t stay and a few hours later we stopped for the night camping at a lovely rest area with views over many hills in the distance.

The next day was the roughest so far with long stretches of bull dust and very rocky and corrugated roads.  In fact Wikicamps had this section of road listed as ‘the bulldust section’!  It seemed to go on forever.

We camped that night just before Jervois Station.  Our heater had decided to break down the night before so waking up to the coldest morning to date was not much fun but a hot cup of tea in the sun did wonders for a cold body.

We called into Jervois before leaving the next morning hoping to buy bread but they only sold fuel and cold drinks.  Camping and loos are available as well.  Just 6 km past here you cross the Plenty River.  Although dry, the majestic river gums were a welcome contrast to the grassy mulga plains we had been driving through for the last few days.  We didn’t stop here and get a photo.  I imagine the Plenty Highway was named for the river.  We did, however, stop not far down the road to have a look at the biggest termite mound we have seen anywhere.

Today the road improved in patches but still a fair bit of rough stuff.  As we approached Harts Range - Atitjere Community there was a large stretch of roadworks.  This was followed by an almost new sealed road and then another 20 km of roadworks with a temporary detour road that was far better than anything we had been on the last few days.  Sheer bliss!

 

As it was getting late in the day we didn’t stop at Harts Range but continued on to Gemtree where we had decided to stay at the Caravan Park and plug in so we could use the RC Air con in the van.  The forecast was for 0 deg overnight.

We stayed here for four days as on our arrival we were advised that Alice Springs was full due to the Camel Cup and the school holidays.  During our time here the area experienced a 5 day cold snap with nights dropping to -5, -4 and -2 over this time.  The water froze in the park pipes, which then sprang a leak so there was certainly no catching up on the washing here!  The newest addition to the Gemtree compound is the relocation of Mt Rickett House which is now a museum telling the stories of all the nearby stations.  A very interesting few hours was spent there.

After this little sojourn we moved into Alice Springs and with the caravan parks still all full we stayed at Blatherskite Park.  They are only allowed to take campers here if there is no space anywhere else.  While here we had the heater looked at and fixed, the car serviced and caught up on the washing, the shopping and really just enjoyed another four days of taking it easy and some sightseeing in town.  We had a look at 'The Residency' and learnt all about Alice Springs brief period of legislative independence from the rest of the Northern Territory.  This lovely old building hosted Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip in 1963.

Leaving Alice Springs we continued on ‘our shortcut’ thoroughly enjoying this sealed section that would last until we reached Kata Tjuta.

We stayed overnight at a large rest area at Finke River.  Stopped the next morning at Erldunda Roadhouse for coffee.  These guys cater very well to the travelling public and the surrounding carpark was full.

A huge open area next to the Kings Canyon turnoff was home for the night and we enjoyed cooking dinner over the campfire.

The next morning we stopped for the obligatory look and photograph of Mt Connor.  The information board tells us it is one of the three tors which are Mt Connor, Uluru and Kata Tjuta.  It really is quite spectacular.

We made our way from here to Curtin Springs where we stayed the night at their large free camp next door.  So many people camp here and drive into Uluru and Kings Canyon on day trips.  Must be huge days as it is well over 100 km one way to either place.  I loved the artwork on the shower block.

We left the next morning and drove into Yulara where we camped for the next four days in ‘the overflow’.  No power, no water and a big red field.  No different to where we usually stay so all was good.  Loved the showers though.

Since the heater was fixed we had only used it twice as the weather had warmed up again.  Bill, however, had come down with a terrible head cold, hence the reason for a four day stay.  He hunkered down for the first two days and then we got out and had a look at Uluru as he started to improve.

Such an amazing sight as you first glimpse it. There really are no words to describe this amazing sight which was just as spectacular now as the last time we visited.

We went along and watched the sunset.  The day had been cloudy, and still was, making for some interesting viewing as the rock changed colour many times as the sun appeared and disappeared behind the clouds.

The next day we returned seeing it during the day and driving right around the base.  We watched some people climb to the top.  The well worn track can be seen from a distance but the climb will close for good in 2019.  No big walks for us this this time as Bill was still recovering.

Sunset that night had perfectly clear skies and made for a completely different spectacle to the night before.

At last it was time to continue our journey and return to our ‘shortcut’ and so we left Yulara and headed west. But first we stopped to see Kata Tjuta on the way out.  So totally different from Uluru but absolutely spectacular as well.

We stopped and viewed this incredible formation from a couple of places along the road before walking into Walpa Gorge. The wind was blowing a gale here making the walk a little interesting.

We had our lunch in the car park and shortly after were on our way to begin part two of ‘the longest shortcut’.  I’ll let you know how we go.

until next time.......